Sparklers go well with a holiday buffet

With the holidays fast approaching, I spent quite a bit of time at the sparkler tables in an earnest search for wonderful, inexpensive sparklers, and I did it all for you, my very special wine column pals. That’s my story and I’m stickin’ to it.

Unlike so many who only recommend sparklers as aperitif or toasting or appetizer wine, I believe that most sparklers are great food wine. They go especially well with much of the food found on the groaning board of a well-planned holiday buffet. Turkey and most accompaniments, oysters on the half shell, raw or with a Champagne beurre blanc, crab cakes, seared scallops, ham, ham biscuits and roast pork all love the cleansing zip of a well-made sparkler. The past few weeks, I have reviewed several Italian sparklers. So, this week’s column will dwell on California’s inexpensive, delightful selections.

First up, Scharffenberger NV Brut $17, 90 points, is a Chardonnay and Pinot Noir blend showing apple and honey aromas and flavors. Good body. Finishes with caramel, vanilla and a malolactic creaminess.

Chandon showed two: 2006 Mt. Veeder Reserve is a gorgeous, elegant wine, priced around $40, 92 points. The Chandon Reserve Blanc de Blancs, 90 points, often sold for around $25, shows nicely balanced floral nose and poached pear. But my fav was Roederer Estate Brut $23, 92 points, a rich blend of Chard and PN blended with aged reserve wines. It has a delightful yeast and fruit nose backed up by hazelnut flavor, and enough acid to clean up the palate. A wonderful pork or ham wine that can be served throughout the evening.

Mumm Napa Brut Rosé, 89 points, $16, PN and Chard blend, pretty, rose color achieved by adding red wine. Nose is strawberry and plum. More berries on the creamy, spicy palate, and a very long, crisp finish. The Reserve is bottle aged four years before release, and it shows; $25, 92 points and worth the buy up, although I don’t wish to diminish the non-reserve. Also good QPR.

Roederer Estate Brut Anderson Valley NV, 92 points by three writers. This isn’t Cristal, but it is darn good, and a great QPR. It is a bargain and a half under $20. The Roederer Brut Premier got a 91 from Tanzer. Blended of 60 percent PN, 30 percent Chard and 10 percent Pinot Meunier, its yellow-gold color reminded me of Veuve Clicquot.

Spicy lemon/apple aromas highlighted with gravel notes in the nose. On the palate, croissant, peach and apricot flavors. Tanzer wrote of cherry pit bitterness, but I did not detect it. Rather, I thought the mineral note and the gravel aromas may lead some to think bitter. The finish was crisp, with elevated mineral accent and very clean.

We can’t say Cali sparkler without bringing up Schramsberg Blanc de Blancs or Blanc de Noir, two varietal delights. The Blanc de Blancs are 100 percent Chardonnay. The 2008 is the vintage to buy. Priced at $35, it gets 93 points. Maybe the best recent vintage. Ginger ale-colored with fresh lime, Granny Smith, pineapple and hints of barrel-aged honeycomb and hazelnut aromas. Opens acid crisp with lime, pineapple and tropical fruit flavors; on the mid palate, lemon custard and brioche. Finishes with a fruity sweetness, although the wine is completely dry, supported by appropriate acidity through a long, clean finish.

I know I promised you French, but sadly there is an ink and paper shortage so I must end here.