Stumbling across Back Porch Apres Surf a delight
The governmental foolishness followed by a stock market mini-crash and the S&P downgrade of our debt rating put me into such a funk I turned my normal weekly tasting into a huge drunken debauch. Failure to use the expectoration bucket (in French cellars some just use the earthen floor) at a 75-bottle tasting will do that for one. What to do?
Whenever I need cheering up, a visit to the boards for a stroll usually does the trick. So, on Saturday, Barbara and I braved the traffic to take in the sandcastle extravaganza. This is a wonderful entertainment that far too many of our locals and visitors eschew. While there I made a point to talk to the kids especially, and it is mood-elevating to watch their eyes light up at a positive comment. I often wonder how the younger set view their own amateur attempts juxtaposed with those with very obvious artistic talents?
On the way back to our $1.50 per hour parking space, with $3.50 left on the meter, we happened by one of our favorites, the Back Porch. Since it was around 3 p.m. we thought they would be between service, but stopped to say hello to Keith and Bee who, we were pretty sure, would be preparing for dinner time. On reading their bulletin board, conveniently located near the sidewalk, we discovered they were serving a menu named Apres Surf.
It has been quite a while since I hung 10 or spooned with Babs on a moonlit beach beside the embers of a low-burning fire or guzzled a T-bird or Mad Dog in my baggies, not to mention some other youthful foibles. I indulged and we definitely weren't wearing our Billabong attire, but we moseyed on in, regardless. Boy, was I embarassed to learn that Apres had been happening for a year or so. Cowabunga, Dude!!
The food as usual was unique and excellent; we enjoyed four selections, a delightful crab and guacamole salad with shrimp garnish, foie gras rolled in spices with a lovely tomato jam, a mozzarella salad with pickled grapes, and creme brulee. The presentation was lovely and the eye set up the mouth for bliss.
There were only a few other tables going, typical on nice beach days, so, we had the opportunity to visit. I'm happy to say that the Back Porch tribe is in fine fettle. During the course of our meal Tom Wayson showed face to say hi.
There are only three local barmen whom I trust to make a call on food-wine pairings for us. Bee, a longtime friend and true expert, is one. As an aperitif, we asked for a fruit-forward, dry selection. He brought us Lee Family Farm Silvaspoons Vineyard Verdelho 2009 produced by Morgan Winery of Monterey. The selection is produced in the Central Valley at Alta Mesa in Lodi. The aromatics were exquisite: tea; honey and violets opened on the palate to lemon zest, crisp apple and limestone minerality. Verdelho is typical of the Azores, off Portugal, and is an early-ripening varietal that provides plenty of food-friendly, crisp acidity. I find it remarkable it took so long for the epiphany of bringing in the Portugese wood to an area in Cali so reminiscent of the climate where it is indigenous. Tip of the hat to Ron Silva, the Portugese extract wine producer (grandpa was an immigrant) who was the first to plant it in Cali. You will need to order this. Expect to pay $200 per case; 90 points.
A tough matchup on the foie gras brought a perfect Warre’s Otima 10-year Tawny port. I had reservations on this selection, preferring a fino sherry to accompany that foie gras, but the Otima hit the mark. Barbara, bless her soul, opted to be our designated driver, thereby allowing me to further comfort my politics-weary heart. The Port was delicious, ripe tawny with huge honey, caramel and dried apricot flavors. Viscous, concentrated, full-bodied, but with plenty of acid to offset. The wine finished dry with lovely orange marmalade and wood notes. I rate it 93 points, two price points under $20. This is a selection every wine bar with dessert should carry. With chocolate - to die for! WS 90, IWC 91.
