Wine list at Kearney’s Alley Rose is diverse, favorably priced
Kearney, Neb. is another of those Midwestern small cities (think Salisbury, Md.) that are wonderful, short-visit destinations. Although I was there for NCAA Division II wrestling championships, there was enough downtime to enjoy the sights and food scene. Both were more than adequate for my short stay. Alley Rose is a divine restaurant in every category. Since few reading here will likely visit Kearney I won’t do the litany. If you are in the area, though, Alley Rose should be on your list. It would compete with the best in the Lewes-Rehoboth-Dewey axis and that’s a very solid endorsement. Longtime readers are aware I believe the local restaurant scene is at the very top of the pile in its diversity and quality.
Thunderhead Brewhouse in Kearney, although it had 200 bottled beers and 36 draughts to sample, sold no Dogfish Head. Their local label was wanting, in my opinion. I tried two samplers of six three-ounce glasses, equal to about three 12-ounce beers and none caught my attention. Yes, I had a sober DD with me!
Alley Rose’s wine list was diverse and favorably priced, with 30 wines by the glass, well chosen and fairly priced. Best of all, you could buy a flight of three or six two-ounce servings for a very reasonable price. My column information was at hand. I chose the six sample out of my affection for you - four were valuable.
Before I continue, a brief side note. Dined in elegance at TGIF’s in the Minneapolis airport and found five of the wines I had written favorably about this past year on the list: Layer Cake, Norton, Mollydooker, Goliath and Edna Valley. I felt pretty darn good about that.
Back to the sampler, let’s start with the Chateau Ste. Michelle Cold Creek Merlot 2007. Ste. Michelle may be the best big label in Washington.
This release is loaded with cassis, pepper, blackberry and coffee riding a well-balanced tannin acid frame. Drinking well now, but will improve with more cellar time Should run in the $25 range.
Tua Rita Perlotta del Bosco Tuscan red 2008 is half Cab, half Sangiovese blend. Garnet color, bouquet of currant, cherry, pie spice and fresh herbs. The frame is bright acid and firm tannins. They support the fruit and herbs through a very long finish. Can be had around $275 by the case maybe $30-plus a bottle; 93 points favorably written by WS and IWC.
Seemless Lake County Cab 2009 is black-purple opaque. The nose is reminiscent of a well-made Bordeaux. Currant, leather, vanilla, coffee and toasted oaken aromas compete with hints of blackberry and tobacco. Plenty of body, concentrated and supported by appropriate tannin levels. The balance is appropriate and, drum roll please, it can be found for less than $15 a bottle.
Highlight for me was the Faust 2007 Cab, written up by Asimov, New York Times, as the top Napa Cab under $100 at a recent tasting. I was surprised at an Augustin Huneeus (Quintessa) production in the mix. The Faust was lovely. Dark garnet colored with a bouquet of aromas of blackberry, cassis and plums with chocolate undertones. Plenty of concentrated fruit accented by mocha on the palate. A well-balanced, complex wine with a long, tasty finish; 91 points if you can find it under $375/case or $39/bottle. If you have the cash, the Quintessa Meritage 2007 is a superior wine. Buy it under $125/bottle or eschew.
Our own Nassau Valley Vineyard is bringing out its Peach Ambrosia Friday, March 18. Barbara and I enjoy this wine with its slightly sweet, ginger-nutmeg finish. It is the pluperfect dessert wine. In summer, properly chilled, it is refreshing to drink on the porch. Sells out each year - a tribute to the quality. Peggy and Suzette will send you a news blast once a month if you contact them. Always a fun, informative read. Go to mail@nassuavalley.com to get on the list.
Check out Fredman to see how Connor fared.
