U.S. wineries make great Rieslings

Riesling may be the most flexible of grapes when it comes to its adaptability to terroir. Many identify the varietal wine (the wine is named for the grape from which it is made ) as being low alcohol, 8-10 percent, and slightly sweet with elevated acid for balance. Erase those thoughts.

Although that describes some, with others you may find a high alcohol, 12-15 percent, completely dry Riesling or in the case of Auslesen, Beerenauslesen, Trockenbeerenauslesen and Isewien, high alcohol as well as elevated sugar levels, due to the use of dessicated or very ripe grapes, but well balanced with high acid levels..

While I'm here, "Chermin" is easier to pronounce than many think. Trocken-beer-en-aus-laysen. Trochen beeren means dried berries, and auslesen deals with grape selection and sugar levels. There are 11 categories. You will find a thorough discussion on Wikipedia. As with many things German, there are a ton of rules, regs and structures. As a consumer, what you gain in specificity and control of product you pay for in elevated pricing. If you are curious go here: en.wikipedia.org/wiki/German_wine.

Confused? Don't despair! Our wine folks in the USA are producing better quality Riesling annually. The only factor holding them back, with the exception of New York at this point, is vine age. Time is taking care of that. So don't spend a lot of time learning "lesung Deutschen" unless you wish to read Thomas Mann in the vernacular. Great Riesling has been coming to your local shop in English as a second language for a while.

Big build-up to tout a truly beautiful Chateau Ste. Michelle-Dr. Loosen Eroica 2007, rated 90-95 by all the writers. Dr. Loosen, you may remember, is one of my young, smart German producers (although he is getting longer in the tooth), and he collaborated with Ste. Michelle the past 10 years on this product. Since 1999 all vintages have been rated in the 90s. The 2007 is killer. A top 10 domestic wine release in 2008, the 2007 from Chateau Ste. Michelle and Ernst Loosen is a medium straw color. It opens to a multifacted bouquet of honeysuckle, peaches, flowers and minerals. On the palate you find a kabinett profile, dry with a very slight hint of sweetness, well balanced by appropriate acid and some pineapple, quince and melon flavors. The finish is quite long, and the aromas and flavors reverberate through a very clean finish as the acidity dries the slight residual sugar. This is a multilayered, complex wine that is reaching maturity now.

Parker and WS both gave it 91 points back in 2008 and claimed it is drinkable now and peaking in 5-7 years. OK, here's the great news. Your wine store guru can probably sell you a case for about $250 and make a fair profit. You will need some patience to have it found and brought in. This Washington State Riesling will not age as long as most Germans, but it should cellar through 2018 if you can keep your mitts off it.

For the purists out there, try to locate some Monchhof Mosel Slate Riesling Spatlesen recently priced at $230/case. WS. 93 pts plus 1 price point from me. Peach and lemon blossom aromas greet your nose, followed by an abundance of creamy citrus, grapefruit and apple flavors supported with slate-like minerality and proper acidity to support the slight sweetness. This will cellar through 20 years.