A rare find: Chateau Brown Pessac Lougnan Blanc
Just returned from Florida's beautiful Gulf Coast. Dan and I dashed down for a skimboard contest. It has been 48 years since I visited Pensacola while in the U.S. Navy. I had forgotten how beautiful the water is. A lovely, pale aquamarine so clear one can clearly see the sea floor in 25 feet of water. Even our former governor could see her feet in that water. Maybe not! Her vision has been proven cloudy.
You may have guessed I am traveling to The Grove Market for work again and the Bridge Over the River Kwai is not only still unfinished but now the lanes are restricted, as well. Gov. Markell was party to most of the questionable decisions of the past regime and Beau won't be demanding a thorough investigation of DelDOT folks, believe it. On a much happier note, a rare offering crossed my screen on my return. Seems Chateau Brown Pessac Leognan Blanc 2008 is up for grabs. This is a typical classic Bordeaux white Graves with a prototypical blend of 60 percent Sauvignon Blanc and 40 percent Semillion. Deep straw color with a slight green tinge opens with the grassy nose typical of white Bordeaux. As expected, the grass dissipates with a few swirls, allowing lemon, apple and pear to show. On the palate, the nose repeats as flavors: citrus, apple, pear and toast are supported by a firm tannic frame.
Nearly perfectly balanced, it finishes clean and long, leaving pleasing lemony, mineral flavors to cleanse the palate. Brown Blanc has the components for long-term cellaring. Drink now through 2020.
Brown, Blanc was rated 93 points by W.S. Parker said 87-89, but he loves Haut Brion and Pape Clement.Tanzer said 91-94. I give it 96 due to 3 bonus price points since the 94-point Haut Brion Blanc costs north of $375/bottle plus Brown outscored Laville Haut Brion $350/bottle and Pape Clement $190/bottle My friends, you can buy the Brown Blanc for less than $400 per case. That is a great bargain. Brown only produced 750 cases You should move very quickly if you are a lover of white Graves.
Chris Ringland hit another home run, or I guess killed a kookaburra or made a "last ball pending soup" call. Chris is the main guy at R Winery, you may remember. I reviewed several in past columns: Evil, First Class Bitch and Luchador are a few. The Darby and Joan Cabernet Sauvignon 2008 is quite a treat, mates. D & J is made sans oak aging. It is deep crimson-colored, with pleasing aromas of ripe plums and juniper. Fruit-driven, full-bodied, loads of fresh boysenberry and licorice flavors, with plenty of sweet tannins to clean the finish. Order a case for $140 from your local friendly wine shoppe. I kinda enjoy the Chards and Cabs being made unoaked; how about you? Regarding Fevre Chablis Bougros Grand Cru Cote de Bougerois 2006, this description by David Schildknecht was too well done to pass up. He writes, "Reveals its oak in lanolin, toasted almond, and spice aromas, along with notes of chalk dust, sweet lime, and heady, lily-like floral perfume. With enveloping richness, luscious juiciness, and flattering creaminess, yet underlain by a vivid sense of crushed stone, this saturates the palate so completely and intensely and with such a palpable sense of extract, that the finishing stain seems almost severe. This remarkably concentrated and polished wine should be worth following for 15 or more years. 94-95 points.” This Chablis is all that, but due to lack of space I must refrain from such verbal gymnastics. Great adjectival use, no? Recently it was on sale for $192/six-pack. That, my friends, is like pulling a Jesse James.
Finally, for those with huge bucks, Suburban in Yorktown, N.Y., has four Bordeaux verticals for sale. Email Suburban Wines for info. An example: Chateau Cheval Blanc 1994, 5, 6 1998, 99, 2000 (2 bottles), 01, 02, 03 (2 bottles) 04. Case price is $7,500
There are also a Mouton, a Margaux, a Haut Brion and a Latour vertical on the block. You may be able to make a cash deal.
