Great white Burgundy ages wonderfully
Finally, I can make a good report on the David Niven Bridge. Apparently the logjam is over. Many people, trucks and pieces of equipment were working full bore around the site of the world's slowest construction site. Why, at the rate they are moving this week, it should be done in time for the next gubernatorial election campaign.
Let's toast the progress with a wonderful bottle of Bordeaux Chateau Le Thil Comte Clary 2008. This estate is located between Chateaux Smith Haut Lafite and Carbonnieux in Pessac Leognon. The winemaker is a huge name in Bordeaux. Stephane Derononcourt of WS wrote it up with a 91-point love letter on release. Those who have cultivated a good rapport with their local wine shoppe should be able to glam some under $275 when buying a case. It is dark red-purple with pronounced, chewy, tannins and a lovely bouquet of boysenberry and blackberry with a whiff of tobacco, licorice and dark chocolate. This wine finishes long, with a very nice herbal and mineral cleanliness. Needs a bit of cellar, but should be at its best 2015-22. A lot of Bordeaux for $23.
Burghound gave the Jean Jacques Girard Savigny Les Beaunes Les Lavieres Premier Cru 2008 91 points and came back with a 92 for the 2009. When I saw some of this beautiful Burgundy from an estate right next door to Corton being sold for less than $40, you know I had to get some. It was quite complex, produced from 50-year-old vines, with a redolent nose of blueberry liqueur, spiced plum and stone. Very ripe, fresh flavors are brisk and seductive, riding a firm minerality through a well-balanced finish.
How about a white Burgundy? Moreau Chablis Grand Cru Les Clos 2007 is priced under $50. This gem was rated 94 by WS, 93 by Burghound and IWC. I sampled it when I bought the Savigny. Frequent readers will remember I am a big fan of Les Clos. The Moreau 2007 did not let me down.
The wine was a pale lemon color. In the glass, lemon oil, stone, minerals, spices and oyster shell aromas compete. On the mid-palate acid verve, lemon and gravel flavors are carried by a creamy-smooth mouthfeel. All run through a very long, clean, lip-smacking finish. Don't forget great White Burgundy ages wonderfully. This will drink very well now, but improve through 2018 and drink ‘til 2025.
I know I'm up in price, so here is an old friend back with a 92-point Shiraz for, drum roll please, $200/case.
Remember Pillar Box 2005? The 2008 is even better. These Aussies get it. Great Shiraz for a very fair price. An opaque purple, the nose is loaded with blackberry, licorice, coffee and oak-driven spices. A powerful wine that is somehow elegant. Drinking well now. Will improve through 2020.
John Bernard Dawson often cracks me up. Check out this write-up in the Sonoma Wine Journal.
“Textbook ballet slipper pink. Alpine strawberry aromas are airy and light, backed by a hint of peach and watermelon. Fine acidity on the entry, where the ruby grapefruit and fraises de bois flavors are clean, elegant and very dry. Light bodied. Exquisite balance. This is produced by a joint venture that includes Aubert de Villaine of the legendary Domaine Romanee Conti and the Seysses family of Domaine Dujac, and the proof is in the high quality of this wine, which is quite worthy of a purchase by the case; 13 percent alcohol; drink now...90+.”
While the pink slipper is a bit much, for me, the rest is not only eloquent but accurate. Best of all Domaine de Triennes Rosé was all that. Smart shoppers can find cases for $180, and their wine shoppe pal can eat well on the modest profit he deserves.
