New Zealand sauvignon blancs steal the show
Just back from a tasting of Sauvignon Blanc (SB) in Maryland. There were more than 100 to sample. I did my level best for you, my faithful readers. A tough and dirty job for one who avoids cat perfume at all costs. In this case I was rewarded with several worthy, cost-efficient, enjoyable selections. As expected, New Zealand stole the show with four of the top five picks.
Dog Point Vineyard New Zealand SB 2010 was the New Zealand toast of the event. I was not surprised to learn it was produced by James Healy and Ivan Sutherland, recently of Cloudy Bay, a real fave of this column. The wine is as near a perfect New Zealand SB as you can get and priced right at $185/case. Another old friend, Mt. Nelson, the 2010, took second from the panel. It is the same old, citrus-driven, well-balanced beauty with the jalapeno nose and the vivacious acidity that has caused me to give it high marks in past columns.
Priced under $150/case, it is a steal. At $11/bottle you can buy a Cairnbrae Vineyards the Stones 2010. Pimento nose opens into citrus, gooseberry flavors with the barest hint of dill. Bright acid cleans up the finish on this focused New Zealand gem. If you prefer Marlborough New Zealand SB, here's one that comes on like a well-made Loire Valley wine. Mother Goose Winery The Goose 2010 fills the bill. Very crisp with apple aroma and flavor. A lot of wine for $11. I rate it 86-7 due to it being a bit light. It was still one of the top picks of the tasting.
Wine No. 5 was actually top shelf, but a Chilean entry, Casa Julia SB 2010; Josh Raynolds of IWC only rated this 88 points. I think the under $8 price tag influenced him. Pale straw greenish-yellow, opened to quinine, pear and melon aromas. On the palate, dry and acid verve vies with peaches and melon through a long, clean, fruit finish. Definitely the pick of the show for me. Smart shoppers can probably find a case under $100.
For patient, persistent readers, the deal of the week: a six-pack of SB delivered to your door for $80. It includes the Julia 2010, Kim Crawford 2010 and Lail Blueprint 2009. I've written the Crawford already and gave it 89 points.
The Lail is 91 points. Yellow colored, opens to typical hay nose followed by lemon drop, mint and guava. On the palate, pineapple, ginger, nutmeg plus a tad of phenol and lemon for cut. Lail goes well with crab crackin', Pacific Rim, Central American or Tex-Mex spicy dishes. Crawford and Julia are for lolling around the porch evenings or mayonnaisey crab dishes and broiled fish.
For my taste, Jean Marc Bouillot Montagny 2008 Premier Cru, which was also being shown priced under $20, beat all those SBs, NZ or otherwise, like a redheaded stepchild. No insult to the auburn-tressed intended. Opens to ripe tropical fruit, toast, vanilla and cloves in the nose, then rises on the palate with apple, lemon, minerality and malolactic flavors A bit short in the finish but 89 points, two price points. It is a white Burgundy. Will cellar very well for 15 years.
Galloni, Tanzer and Suckling all love the 2006 Fuligni Brunello and rated it 96 points. Those who waited can now buy it under $55/bottle when buying a case. Dark red color opens to brambleberries, sandalwood, incense, orange peel and pencil shavings.
Plenty of floral and fruit-driven sweetness on the mid palate, plus an extremely long, full finish that is cleaned up by a floral refrain; 96 points, will drink well 2014-30.
If you want to go with a 96-point, 2006 Brunello di Montalcino, go with the Uccelliera at $52. This a biodynamic farm where most of the work is done manually. Although they eschew the use of chemicals, occasionally they will use sulphur under certain conditions to keep down mildew and mold inherent to humid growing regions. Black cherries, incense, dried flowers, tobacco and gravel aromas are followed by balsamic, menthol, tobacco, and licorice flavors riding a well-balanced, smooth, complex wine with a long, textured finish. Will start drinking in 2015-22.
Bridge on the Kwai has had night work each of the past few Fridays and Saturdays. I'm wondering how that calendar was chosen.
The traffic from the populous north is heaviest then. The other evenings are dark. Am I too suspicious? Is there politics at work here?
I'm writing this Sunday and betting both sides fold and slap each other on the back. Adults in the room and all that waste, fraud and abuse, dontcha know?
