Enjoy a nice six-pack sampler of Pinot Noir
It occurred to me, while driving in to work, that the new inlet bridge access and egress ramps are exactly where the last dune breakthrough occurred a few years back... and the beat goes on.
Following is a beautiful, perfectly distributed, inexpensive, six-pack sampler of Pinot Noir you won't be able to order, due to recent enactment of a stupid, restrictive law that bans shipping wine into our state for personal use. Clever folk who have established a relationship with a local spirit magnate will probably be able to have it brought in for their enjoyment. The price tag may be elevated somewhat, but all six are 91 points and delicious. The sampler also provides a look at six classic PN regions.
Since the Girard Savigny Les Beaunes Premieres Cru Les Serpentieres 2009, Gloria Ferrer PN Carneros 2007 (last week) and Angels Landing Sonoma Coast PN 2009 (two months ago) have been reviewed here, let's focus on the others.
Cornus-Camus Pernand Vergelesses 2009 is crimson, ruby-colored. When poured, a very ripe bouquet of cherry, cinnamon and rose aromas greets the nose. Proper acid and mineral frame carries the fruit-sweet, full mid-palate of cherry jam and raspberry. The 2009s are already known for ripeness. The long, clean finish allows the dusty tannins, pie spice and red fruit characteristics to reverberate.
Van Duzer Estate 2008: bright ruby opens to plum preserves, truffle, fruitcake and clove aromas. This is not the typical austere PN with the fruit-driven sweetness I expected, but a big, fat wine that did not confirm the nose yet. The dark fruit and spice flavors reappear in the long, focused, fruit-sweet finish. I think a few years in cellar will greatly improve this label.
Bergstrom Cumberland Reserve PN 2008 is a Willamette home run. Josh Bergstrom is pulling away from the pack with his Oregon PNs. His wine is huge and flavor packed. He gets ripeness correct, allowing for 14-15 percent alcohol wines with the guts to carry them and not show hot. Jay Miller WA and Raynolds IWC both rated the first release of Cumberland Reserve 91 points. WS and Burghound came in at 90. I think Raynolds captured the wine. His description: "Vivid ruby. Black raspberry and cherry on the nose, with complicating notes of loamy earth and anise. Fresh and focused on the palate, offering gently sweet red fruit flavors and a late note of licorice pastille. Deep but lively pinot with very good finishing clarity and spicy cut. This is delicious now but will be even better with a couple years' bottle age."
Couple of McD notes: A pastille is a small, medicated aromatic candy. Think sen sen or tic tac if you are ticky tacky. Bergstrom Winery produces eight PN labels, a few chards, a Reisling, Gewurtz and a Rosé. If you wish to go upscale, have a look at their Winery Block or the label, which reads Bergstroms Vineyard. Your local wine shop pal can get info and wine from Prestige Beverage Group: 443-702-3370.
The entire reviewed package was offered at $130 delivered. Under normal circumstances the Van Duzer and Cumberland come in at $30 each. Cumberland halves are available. An address for your broker: www.bergstromwines.com. The Savigny ranges from $35-45 and Vergelesses around $25. You are buying both the Angels and Ferrer for $10 if you can make the deal. Happy hunting!
Many have asked why I continue to review the same restaurants. One reason I am not the restaurant reviewer: I refuse to base a decision on a restaurant on one or two visits. They have too much at stake and I am only out a less-than-perfect meal. Having cheffed for 43 years, I have burned a few, over-salted and just plain botched a couple. My critiques have gone from sand in the parsley and wet lettuce to chef of the year. Most seem to think I have a clue about food and wine.
One underlying thread of which I am fairly certain - when you place your reputation, faith and taste buds in the hands of the unlearned, often bad things happen. Therefore I decided early on that if I couldn't be positive, I would refrain from reviewing. Of many meals eaten approximately 40 percent were reviewed. There are too many terrific restaurants hoist on the petard of a glib, facile writer who really doesn't know escarole from endive or frisee from chicory.
I am certain, though, Barbara and I had dinner at Sedona and the food was great! Not good, mind you, but great. Nice wine list, although by the glass it was a bit limited for my taste. The service was adequate and the venue was clean and well appointed. An expensive restaurant that was an excellent value.
