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Wine

Cellar-building bargains are becoming available now

October 31, 2011

If you kept your powder dry, the window is opening on cellar-building bargains. Recent offerings flooding the mailbox indicate that the French, Italian and Spanish wine market is starting to crack. This is being driven by the Euro/PIIGS crackup. Big-name wineries are trying to sell inventory before the dollar/Euro crackup. Following is a listing of some previously written-up wines you should be examining for possible purchase. In keeping with the wine for the holidays theme, these go well with turkeys and spicy foods.

Start with Michel Gassier Cercius Cotes du Rhone 2010. Parker gave it 93 points and called it, "One of the greatest Cotes du Rhone I ever tasted." On sale now, half price at $180/case delivered; drink through 2016.

Then there's La Serena Brunello di Montalcino 2006, WS 97 points, Suckling 96 and Galloni 93. My guru, Mr. Galloni, was too stingy. I say 96. It is on sale at $600/case. Redolent of peony or rose (hard to say), dark fruit, mocha, chocolate, spices, roast coffee and pie spice. The nose repeats on the palate riding a frame of well-integrated tannins and acidity through a flavor-reverberating, long, round finish. Cellar one year; drink through at least 2020.

Kilikanoon "R" Reserve Barossa Valley Shiraz 2005 has dropped by half. Jay Miller writing in WA gave it 94 points on release and the price spiraled to a high of $80. I wrote hold your fire. Current sale price is $40 and maybe better on a case. Crimson-purple with brick rim, toast, smoke, vanilla, spice, black pepper, and cherry aromas. The tannins are just beginning to coalesce, showing its layered structure. R is huge with a very long, tart finish. Plenty of backbone. Drink 2013-30. Lisa Perotti Brown on erobertparker.com says 97. I say 96 and improving.

Great time to buy a vertical Ridge Lytton Springs Sonoma Proprietary Red Wine. Zin always is a hit with holiday foods. Buy two of the 2007, 90 points; four 2008, 92 points; and six 2009s, a stunner at 95 points. Black fruit, plums, road tar, licorice and smoke are some of the notes that flow from this generous, inviting red. The 2009 used 23 percent petit syrah in its blend but is predominantly Zin (71 percent). It will cellar easily through 2025 and start drinking well in 2014. The '07 and '08 are ready to go.  You should be able to buy this case under $350.  If you enjoy the profile and it is out of your price range, search out some Tait the Ball Buster Prop Red 2008; buy it at $140-50/case.

Henry's Drive Pillar Box Reserve Shiraz 2007 is almost inky. Its black fruits, smoky bacon, Asian spice nose leads a rich, full-bodied wine where the nose is reinforced by the rich fruit nuanced by black licorice, berry and currants on the palate. Nice long finish is enhanced by typical hints of Padthaway Eucalyptus; 91 points, will drink well 2013 through 2022. If you can't locate 2007 under $18 look for 2009 under $22. The '08 is a lesser vintage in most respects, rates around 88 points. Nice wine, but you can do much better for the price.

I took a terrible email beating for some of last week's column. One of you referred to my "unrequieted love affair with Grande Dame Cliquot." Although that is a very nice turn of phrase, I refuse to be hoist on your petard, bucko. Please look into my nonvintage column. The entire object of NV is to produce the exact same flavor/nose profile every year regardless of conditions.This allows one to find that which is most appealing to his palate, and be able to buy it at any time. Mine is actually the Clicquot Ponsardin Brut Yellow Label.

Full-bodied Champagne golden-colored, enriched by reserve wines to add depth and smoky lees intensity to its brisk, young bouquet of fresh bread dough, chalk and vanilla. Ripe apple flavors spiced with vanilla and pecan. Creamy with hints of toast, biscuit, honeyed flavors of quince, apple blossom and peach with a mineral and smoke-tinged finish. Barbara and I like to serve shrimp during the holidays. Brut Yellow is the quintessential accompaniment in the $40 range, in my humble opinion. Thanks for reading and your comments!

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