Columnist debunks image of wine snobbery
Thanksgiving is a mega weekend for the McD household. Our anniversary, Connor’s birthday and Thanksgiving usually coincide. We have fun, festivities and frolic for the best part of a week. 2011 was no exception. Special kudos to Rehoboth Beach Yacht & Country Club for a wonderful Sunday brunch and the upgrades to the wine list over the last couple of years.
I read the following by Gary Gibson in Whiskey and Gunpowder. Thought I would pass it along because it captures a part of my wine-tasting mojo. He says most of us “buy on price, name, and label. The price has to be low. The name has to be clever. And the label has to be pretty and fun. So I'll buy Oops! before Clos de la Roche Grand Cru. I'll take home Arrogant Frog's Big Ribbet before anything with the words Medoc Chateau d'Armailhac and Mad Housewife before AC Chassagne-Montrachet.
“After a lifetime of trying, I just can't pretend anymore. I'm not a wine snob. I like it all. I like everything. I used to draw the line at the big jugs with the screw tops, but no longer. I like those too. I can buy a random case from anywhere, take it home, and enjoy every single bottle. I no longer even pretend to be critical. All wines are wonderful.”
I am on board for most, since I earn a large part of my income writing about wine. Thanks to the largesse of Cape Gazette I’m critical enough to help inform you, my friends, when good product at a fair price is available. If you believe the vibrancy of our citizens is lying dormant, the next several months may be that low in the market that future generations will look back on and say, "Wow! I stole that case back during the great European deflation.”
How about a case of two each of these: Brunelli di Montalcino priced $540 and ready to drink by 2013-14 plus able to cellar at least through 2025, or Campogiovanni San Felice, WS 96; Tenuta Carlina La Togata, WS 95; La Serena, WS 97; Ciacci Piccolomini d'Aragona Pianrosso, WS 95; Poggio il Castellare, JS 94; and 2006 La Rasina, IWC 94?
The 96-point Campogiovanni was especially appealing to me. Dark wine-colored when I first tried it, Campo is just beginning to lighten. The bouquet of licorice, toast, smoke and spice aromas opens on the palate to hints of raspberry, which I think come forward over time. Campo is balanced, complex, focused and has plenty of support with a long finish. It needs at least until 2014 but will be wonderful through the later teens to 2025.
The Ciacci, on the other hand, is drinking well now but will improve through 2020 or longer. Cherry, raspberry, currant and violet aromas repeat through the palate. Refined tannins and red fruit flavors ride an elegant yet well-structured and balanced frame through a long finish.
The others listed were favorably reviewed here previously. The La Rasina received 2 price points. By the way, occasionally folks email me to let me know I write up Brunello way too often. Sorry, but they remind me of Grandpa Joe and I truly enjoy them.
For those of us who like excellent wine priced under $20, try the following: Chard, Concannon Conservancy 2009; Cab, Chateau Ste. Michelle 2008, Benziger 2007 or Rodney Strong Alexander Valley 2007; Pinot Noir, Rodney Strong Estate 2009; Shiraz, Yangarra Estate 2008; sparkling, Roederer Estate Brut; and Merlot, Chateau Ste. Michelle 2007. All rated 90 or more by poobahs, they get at least one price point from me.
You will note that Rodney and Ste. Michelle have multiple listings. These folks continue to produce wonderful wine at very reasonable prices. In great vintage years, they are outstanding. Best of all, from my point of view, neither have resorted to the “10 grapes selected from hand-chosen bunches of vine number 321 in row 6 of ole McDonald’s biodynamic farm” model that so many in the wine biz are employing to drive price. You can find all these locally. Remember, they are vintage specific.
