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Wine

Barolo drinking is very expensive, time-consuming experience

March 30, 2011

Although I enjoyed this past week watching the NCAA Division 1 wrestling championships, I am sad to report our four Delaware wrestlers who made it to the show did not perform to my expectations. Nevertheless, it was very special for me to see a longtime acquaintance, Anthony Robles, win the 125-pound weight class.

You see, Tony was born missing his entire right leg. He took up wrestling in his teens and has risen to its epitome in a few short years. Tony has never seen himself as handicapped. He is a fine student, humble Christian guy, has a great attitude and will graduate from Arizona State University in the spring.

Tony is a tribute to perseverance and achievement against great odds. There may not be any other major college sport a person of his physical makeup can excel at. Naturally, it is the one most often cut for Title IX or financial reasons at the universities.

A nice buy on Paul Jaboulet Aine Crozes Hermitage 2007 at six/$200 came across my screen recently. My previous review: Brilliant ruby color opens to raspberry, licorice, pepper and mineral aromas supported by subtle bacon notes. The aromas lead into cherry and blackberry flavors riding a vinous, balanced acid and tannic frame through an acid-bright, berry-packed, long finish.

My guru Galloni gave the 2006 Elio Grasso Barolo Ginestra Vigna Casa 96 points. You can imagine my surprise when Suburban Wine placed it on sale at $72, down from $90. When we sampled on release, it showed great promise. Still needs four years in your cellar. Barolo drinking is a very expensive and time-consuming experience. The 2006 will be worth the wait. By the way, if this sale price can’t be found look for 96-point Pira Barolo Marenca under $700/case.

Drop this paper, then buy as much Joh. Jos. Prum Mosel Bernkasteler Riesling Badstube Auslese 2009 as you can afford. You can always drink Auslese, but this will be best 2015-40. It was on the market at $46. You all are well aware I love Auslesen. This 97-point beauty is a once-in-a-lifetime buy.

Pretty, pale-golden color, bright, racy, almost sparkling, it opens to refreshing Riesling nose with green apple, peach and melon flavors concentrated on the palate. Plenty of minerality and acid offset the slightly sweet profile, and a hint of smoked ham influences and extends the long, power-packed finish.

If Sauternes is your Bordeaux of choice, check out the 2008s. This was an average year in Sauternes, and it is reflected in the prices.

The 92-point Chateau Guiraud or Ruissac or Suiderat selling at $650/case of 24 half bottles and $600/case for fulls is a terrific value. I thought the Guiraud the best value of sample but all were worthy. Guiraud was very ripe and layered with acacia and orange-rind aromas that flowed into apples, dried apricot and ripe peach flavors all supported with a great acid frame and honey. The entire vintage is ready to drink now and won’t have the super long shelf life expected from Sauternes, but the value is there; drink now through 2025. The best in the sample was the Climens, but at $105/bottle it was not a good relative value in my opinion.

Quite a bit is being made of Sine Qua Non A Shot in the Dark, 11 Confessions Vineyard 2006.  it was rated 98 and took $3,100 for six at a recent auction. I trotted on down the road and found Favia Rompecabezas Amador County 2008 going for $65; rated 95 points. Recent  auction for 2006 bottle was $145.

For $3,100 you can buy four cases of 2008 and 21 bottles of the 2006.

I would go two cases ‘08 and one ‘06 and use the change to buy Barbara a nice present to keep things friendly. A well-made Rhone blend of Syrah, Grenache and Mourvedre, the Rhone Rangers are making better wine now than the Rhone heritage guys, with few exceptions, at half the price. Buy American and bye.

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