Bypass cheap, consistent wines; splurge a bit on new tastes

Due to a plethora of food shortage articles and reports, and the media bleat of overflowing landfills, I almost couldn’t find time for the column. I’ve been diligently working on possible recipes for used Christmas trees. I must admit I failed to entreat my page mate, Denise, to collaborate. So far, I have a wing-shaped, gooey, resinous, flammable cake which smells of air freshener, and tastes like green chartreuse and chlorophyl. On the bright side, it is loaded with fiber and there are large piles of toothpicks left. I’m working on the flame issues and trunk disposal later on today.

Let’s look at three fairly priced Vina Tarapaca wines from Maipo Valley in Chile. Gran Reserva Carmenere, both the 2018 and ‘19, score 90 McD points. The 2019 runs $16 and needs a year or two. The ‘18 is ready and findable under $20. If you tried the older vintages, you may remember they were a bit oaky. Winemaker Sebastián Ruiz has lowered the oak exposure, improving the profile. Big, dark-colored, with berry, herbal, graphite nose, blueberry, chocolate, mineral and barrel spice flavors riding smooth tannins and balanced acidity through a long, clean finish. The ‘19 is closed but shows promise. Dark fruit and fresh herbal aromas, darker berry and herbs accented with stony minerality, vague anise and smooth tannin palate. Hold til 2023. Their organic red blend of Cab Sauv, Cab Franc and Carmenere has a complex bouquet of raspberry, plum, violets, and white pepper, which repeats on the palate. Well balanced with a long, clean finish. I like this as a standalone but it will complement venison and roast red meats. If you happen to see their Etiqueta Negra Gran Reserva Cab 2018, grab several. It is an excellent buy. Under $29 gets 2 price points. Window just opened and it will cellar  to 2030. Black fruit, smoky barrel spice, hot granite aromas with ripe berries, cocoa, coffee, pepper and barrel spice flavors, and appropriate tannin/acid support. Be careful with labels. Some Tarapaca product is below my 87-point rating standard.

For those who are interested in Sonoma Cabs that are drinking perfectly and recognize the value of properly aged wine, Pennsylvania Liquor Board has a library release Jordan Cab 2012 selling at $90, huge bang for your bucks. Jordan makes its wines to cellar. Ms. Jancis predicted, shortly after its release, that the 2012 would be perfect 2014-22. I bought 12 for $650. Jordan was the first winery Barbara and I visited in Sonoma in 1980.Winemaker Rob Davis was a gracious host. We were sold on his Bordeaux blend beauties. Ruby-colored with a rosemary, cherry, balsamic, strawberry bouquet. On the palate, cherries, eucalyptus and oregano. Soft tannins, palate-cleansing acidity allowed the herbs to show. Sadly, as those huge tannic, fruit- and alcohol-heavy Napa Cabs became the standard, few in Cali are producing this style any longer. 

Lester asked about Kim Crawford NZ Sauvignon Blanc, 87 McD, $16. I really don’t support it. Although it is consistent and cheap, you get what you pay for. I’d rather tout Groth Napa SB 2019, under $18, 92 McD. Pale golden-colored, blended with 18% Semillon, it is round with plenty of acidic support and a lovely peach, grapefruit and lemon blossom bouquet. On the creamy mixed palate, lemon, grapefruit and tangerine flavors persist through a bright, clean finish with hints of tea and tangerine. If your Valentine loves SB, you have plenty of time to bring in the 2019, 93 McD, Gamble Family Vineyards Gamble Vineyard SB. I’ve seen it under $25, but pay up to $28. Your wine guy needs to eat also. Trust me on this – a case buy, for those who can swing it, will be rewarded. Bordeaux style, fermented in 45% new oak, spends 18 months in barrel. Bone dry with lees, caramel, vanilla and orange marmalade on the palate. Ages well and evolves to creamy, nutty notes. Some other Napa SB under $25 names with good QPR are Cliff Lede and Girard. In closing, here’s a diet resolution tip: When you feel hungry, you may actually be thirsty. Drink a bottle of wine first. Then decide.