Carménère could be the next Malbec

Let’s start with an affordable St. Julien Bordeaux 2009 this week. The 2009 made a big splash when it came on line in 2011; it was called “best vintage ever” by many of the normal experts. As usual, the prices popped on many. Well, the smoke has cleared and the prices are more realistic, and best of all, the wine is ready to drink through at least 2025. Chateau Lagrange St. Julien is the label to look for. Be careful here, because there are at least three Chateau Lagrange from Bordeaux. Only one has this exact label. It came on at $64, spiked then slid back, and is now findable around $65. Still dark-colored with a crimson tinge, there is enough tannin to say it will keep well. That said, it is very drinkable now. Pleasing bouquet of blackberry, plum, licorice and oak-driven cedar (cigar box), and on the palate still plenty of fruit and tannins to support aging. Has a lovely, clean, dry finish. Try to drink it around 60 degrees for best read, 92 McD points.

Not so long ago I wrote up the Casillero Del Diablo Carménère 2015. You may remember I mentioned Carménère as the next possible success story out of S.A. If you are curious, you can go to Snooth for a nice read on these wines: www.snooth.com/articles/carmenere-wine-master-class-lessons-learned, written by Mark Angelillo and several collaborators. Could be the next Malbec.

Bodegas La Val Albarino 2015 is lovely and at $155/case it is a bargain, McD 89 points. These whites are from Condado do Tea Rias Baixas in Spain. Pretty, bright straw yellow-colored, they open in the glass to a lovely bouquet of white flowers, citrus and herbs. On the clean palate lime, lemon and some stony minerality with bright acidity. These are excellent seafood wines and are especially appealing with many types of sushi. They also produce La Val Finca De Arantei Albarino among other selections; I enjoyed a 2014, 89 McD under $17.

The 2015 Nik Weis St. Urbans-Hof Wiltinger Alte Reben Mosel should be hitting the shelves soon. I had a preview bottle, thanks to some pals at Creative Palate. Weis is known for his broad selection of Riesling bottlings. Most of them are excellent food wines. You may remember a column where I discussed the idea that many Mosels are made for long-time aging. It was Herr Weis himself who introduced a lovely selection and told attendees of having tasted some that were 80 years old. The 2015 (McD 91 points) was absolutely delicious with flounder almandine. I did hold back on the lemon because I imagined the wine’s acidity would carry the day. You can always add a spritz of lemon or a dash of salt after the first taste. I have found when sautéing with butter, lemon tends to make it brown more quickly. The Wiltinger showed a smoky, spicy nose, very bright acidity and ripe apple flavors. I think you will be able to buy a six-pak for around $100 with a slight premium on single bottles.

On a recent trip up north, I found a bottle of Chateau Guiraud Sauternes 2009 languishing on the shelf at $60. I remembered that Janics Robinson had written these up quite favorably a few years ago as one of Guiraud’s best vintages in a while. I truly enjoy sauterne with beef or various types of paté. Many think of Sauternes only as dessert wines, and who am I to argue? However, until you have enjoyed a properly aged Sauternes with filet mignon that has a piece of Roquefort melted atop and a light demi-glace, you ain’t lived. Also, now that decent domestic foie gras is available without needing a small Brinks truck to back up its purchase, if you are feeling really decadent, broil the filet, then top with foie gras and cook just until the “chopped liver” starts to melt. I really enjoy the look on the faces of the “I really don’t like liver” crowd when they try this dish with the “I didn’t think white wine would go with this” Sauternes. Love and hugs from John “the Sybarite.”