For a few dollars more, get a better Beaujolais

Nouveau Beaujolais 2017 officially hit our shores Thursday, Nov. 16. Unless you ordered ahead, or know someone who did, or you have pals in the biz, you missed the grand opening. Unfortunately, driven by regard for you, I was obliged to review several. Many contend Nouveau Day is the world's largest wine party. I see it as another marketing ploy by our French friends, like frog's legs, escargot and Roquefort Papillon Noir, all lovely and relatively expensive. Think about it. Although a very large contingent can't wait for the release of these Gamay varietals (proper name Gamay Noir au Jus Blanc, but few know or use it), which are off-the-vine-to-you wines, I'm rarely a fan. I try to keep an open mind while sampling. Longtimers will tell you that usually I will announce, “These are not wines I would normally buy," or something to that effect. 

Gamay is ubiquitous in Beaujolais. Many writers claim it is the only red varietal grape grown in the region. N'est pas, mes amis! It is, however, by far the most prolific. The 2017 reminded me of the 2009, which if memory serves I rated 84 points, no price points. Anyhow, look for grapey, raspberry, plum, licorice, faint violets and mild tannins, fruity. Please, friends, pay up $1 or $2 for a Beaujolais Villages. In most cases, in previous vintages, you are adding 3-4 quality points. Even better, choose one of the 10 Grand Cru estates from North Beaujolais just south of Macon. The 2017 won't be released for a bit. I bought a case of Georges Duboeuf 2011 Domaine Moulin a Vent for $184. These were the highest-rated “Beau Julius” in my memory, excellent QPR at 91 points. Lest you fret, Grand Cru, unlike Nouveau, ages several years. 

Those who are curious may wish to buy one each, Nouveau, Villages and Grand Cru, of the 2015, a very reasonable way to look at values. Invite 12 pals, and you should get 13, 2-oz. pours/bottle if you are steady. Cost of wine under $35/three bottles. It is important all are from the same vintage and producer. Your friendly wine shop proprietor should be delighted to help. 

As a refrain, did you know Roquefort was green, not bleu? First known reference Pliny. Noted foodie Brillat-Savarin, regarding Roquefort, exclaimed, “A dinner without this cheese is like a lovely woman with only one eye." Today he would be excoriated as a cyclopean misogynist. The cheese is made only of Lacaunes (Larzac breed) ewe's milk, and the mold comes from being injected with penicillium roqueforti, originally a bread mold and related to P. notatum, initially found in fermentation containers, that led to the discovery of penicillin. Digression can be a spice of life.

Joseph Phelps Insignia 2014 was recently awarded 97 points; it jumped from $190 to $231 and needs cellar time. Wise buyers will look for the 2010, under $189, it needs a few more years; or best, the 98-point 2004, under $200, drinking well now. One caveat, special orders usually bring upcharges. For balance, how about a French Cru Bourgeois and a New Zealand Pinot Noir? Chateau Lassus Medoc 2014 - see it, buy some. Pours a lovely, dark claret color. Opens to blackberry and underbrush notes. On the palate black fruit, slightly tannic. Color and tannin show moderate aging potential, though it is drinking well now. Clean finish with more black fruit and some barrel notes. A lot of wine for $15. RRs are alert to Nobilo Sauvignon Blanc, rated in the 90s and a fantastic shellfish wine. Barbara and I also enjoy the Pinot Noir because it is a versatile food wine. Sure to please during Thanksgiving and other winter holidays is Nobilo Icon Pinot Noir 2015. Dark cherry-colored, coaxing reveals cherry and barrel spice aromas. On the balanced, slightly tannic palate, dark fruit flavors and more barrel spice. We took the producer’s advice and served tuna. I made a Thai sauce with lemon grass, garlic, ginger, onion, carrot, bok choy, devil pepper (50K plus Scoville, be careful) and mirepoix. This Marlborough NZ producer is very consistent. Although its lovely wine varies with the weather somewhat, I usually rate the PN 88-89 points, around $20. 2015 is the new release. Wishing all a very happy, blessed Thanksgiving.