Global warming expected to affect traditional wine regions

Recently, Leeuwin Estate Art Series Margaret River Chardonnay 2013, 93-96 points at $79, has been named Australia’s best, and many have compared it to various White Burgundies priced around $400/bottle. Although I rarely buy Chardonnay, let alone $400 bottles, after reading the likely suspects when the Art Series first came on my screen in 2007, I decided on sampling the wine for the edification of “youse guys” and a few family members who remain loyal to Chards. I was delighted to find a very Burgundian, rich chardonnay at an affordable price. The best of these since 2007 are ‘09, ‘10 and ‘12. I found the 2013 to be lovely but just a bit less than the ‘12. This price disparity allows us to buy value, because when several writers, including Australia’s Halliday, started tossing around “best evers” and compared these to the likes of Ramonet Montrachet, Jadot Chevalier Montrachet Les Demoiselles and Kongsgaard the Judge, the better (in my opinion) 2012 languished and is now being sold under $70. If you locate any, the 2009 is an even better buy in the $75-85 range.

Beware the Ides of 2015 Oregon Pinots. After the 2014 “wines of the century” hyperbole, 2015 arrived with an early bud break and another “perfect weather year.” The Oregonophiles in the critic realm are falling all over themselves with what may become “wines of the millennium” accolades.

To provide a bit of perspective here, by far the largest part of Oregon’s vineyards are barely 50 years old. You may recall Barbara and I visited Oregon last spring. As a result we were able to enjoy many barrel samples. I recommended, on my return, to hold fire on buying the ‘14s. It is still a bit premature, but as soon as the ‘15s are available, the ‘14s should come down in price.

Furthermore, as global warming works its will, the climate in Oregon will warm, and there will be more of the “best in the galaxy” vintages. It is instructive that many French and Italian vintners are buying land farther north or at higher elevations to accommodate the effects of global warming. I believe that if the warming trend continues, rain and hot weather will have a deleterious impact on wine from the traditional regions as they become warmer and wetter. It will likely impact planting or grafting patterns, which will change the varietal types we are drinking over time. You read it here first! Look for more Rhone and hot-climate Italian varietal offerings and a push from writers to move us to Washington State for PN and Chard as the nascent weather patterns continue.

Another beware is on us as the 2015 Bordeaux hits the street. Be careful here, folks. Some of them are excellent, and some got washed out. The St. Emilion is generally quite good. I recently ordered a case of Chateau Tour St. Christophe St. Emilion Grand Cru 2015 presale at $290 on the strength of a 91-94-point Tony Galloni recommendation, which was heartily supported by effusive write-ups from Jeff Leve (94) and James Suckling (95-96). It is rare that I am so trusting, but when three generally disparate palates agree, I may take a chance. Suckling was a bit over the top, but one of my main gurus Anthony Galloni wrote, “The 2015 Tour Saint Christophe is the most beautiful wine I have tasted off this property. Dark, sumptuous and yet also strikingly vivid, the 2015 possesses superb nuance to balance its natural intensity. Cloves, new leather, crème de cassis and sweet spices give the 2015 much of its unctuous feel and overall texture. This is a superb showing from Tour Saint Christophe.” High praise indeed from Tony Gallons. Tour St. Christophe has been a longtime favorite house wine. It consistently comes in with 89-91-point wines vintage to vintage. I am eagerly anticipating “the most beautiful wine I have tasted off this property,” and you can bet when it is in my hands a review will be forthcoming.