Oops… one more thing about lunching in Lewes

My big plan for this week’s column was to crow (as humbly as possible, of course) that you are reading my 700th publication here in Cape Gazette. Thirteen-and-a-half years ago, I vowed to strive for perfection in print, but alas, it was not to be. The most recent example is last week’s column. It was one of my regular roundups featuring selected places in Lewes that dish up a good lunch. I managed to write about 26 places (count ‘em! 26!), but if it ain’t one darn thing it’s another: My apologies go out to Pig & Publican owners Doug and Lisa Frampton; I mistakenly neglected their cozy restaurant in the Beacon Motel on Savannah Road, and, yes indeedy, they do serve lunch. Mea culpa.

I’m a longtime fan of the Frampton’s culinary ventures, from the sadly gone Pig + Fish on Rehoboth Avenue to Pickled Pig Pub, one of my favorite happy places out on the highway. P3 is now part of history, and I visited that place so much that I stopped posting every meal because I didn’t want anyone to think they were sending me W2s at the end of the year. Pickled Pig Pub had a loyal following and I still get emails and comments about Chef Ian Mangin’s creations that included exceptionally good burgers, shredded pork and, of course, pickles. Lots of them. Sadly, the P3 was one of the fine establishments that fell prey to the inequity and insanity our restaurant community endured in the early 2020s.

But Doug and Lisa are nothing if not resilient. Shortly after they escaped downtown Rehoboth, they took over the old Woodings Beach Deli at 516 E. Savannah Road on the Lewes Beach side of the canal drawbridge. Doug marshaled his former life at Wilmington’s Iron Hill Brewery by creating a one-of-a-kind experience with definite hints of Belgian cuisine at the bar and on the menu.

Times and tastes change, of course, and wise proprietors know how to go with the flow. The menu at Pig and Publican reflects that wisdom by paying homage to the sadly gone Pickled Pig Pub with the Publican pretzels (served with a bracing beer mustard and a smooth Belgian ale cheese sauce) and the BBQ pork sandwich decorated (of course) with … you guessed it: sweet pickles. The Asian bistro salad is one of the best around with spicy ginger vinaigrette and chopped peanuts (a quiet nod to Thai flavors).

When they first opened in Lewes, I remember the predictable confusion over the name of the restaurant. Lisa is nothing if not creative, and she insisted on staying with the porcine theme. What do you call a place that serves some good pork dishes, and sports a comfortable, pubby feel? Drawing on their European influences, they discovered that a publican is someone who owns a pub. Duh ... it worked! Hence the name.

The play on the Belgian theme still appears here and there on the menu, but is now mostly at the bar, evidenced by the Duvel Triple Hop Citra brew (a Belgian blonde IPA at 9.5 ABV, so bring a driver). One of the stars of the show is the Publican burger lovingly decorated with cheddar, bacon, spinach and a savory caramelized onion-horseradish aioli. The whole thing’s perched on a toasted pretzel roll. The signature Thai drunken noodles evoke fond memories of P3 and bring a bright Asian palate to the table. I’m a pushover for Nashville hot chicken sandwiches, and the Framptons top ‘em with their signature bread and butter pickles.

The Pig & Publican is open for lunch and dinner year round from noon to 9 p.m., Tuesday through Saturday. They are closed on Sunday and Monday. These people are obsessed with hospitality, and they ensure a pleasant dining experience by seating guests no later than 45 minutes prior to closing. Keep that in mind when – not if – you check out this friendly little spot.