Oregon produces plenty of marvelous Pinot Noir

Pinot Noir lovers should look into the Oregon 2014 release, especially from the higher-elevation district vineyards such as those found on Ribbon Ridge, Chehalem Mountains, Dundee Hills or Eola-Amity Hills. 2013 was a stellar year in Oregon with nearly perfect weather.

Many critics fell all over each other rushing their readers into buying the vintage. You may remember Barbara and I visited Oregon in April this year. We were able to sample the 2016 releases.

As most regulars are aware, PN is usually released two years following a vintage year to allow barrel and bottle aging. I’m sticking by my previous recommendations. They are at least as good and may be better. I do recommend you look at the higher-elevation producers, as it was a hotter-than-normal growing season according to many writers. I think this was misread.

Based on info from the growers and winemakers we met with, the increase in the heat index was not due to exceptionally hot days but rather to less cooling at night. Overly hot days cause the grapes to grow thicker, darker skins, which is generally undesirable.

Another issue bandied about was some rainfall in September during the picking time. Some claimed a dilution effect might occur. Again the growers disputed that, claiming it was little more than an inconvenience, as it was short-lived and minimal.

We found many of the wines we sampled were ripe, aromatic, full-bodied and complex with great concentration. This rarely occurs in a year with a super-abundant crop that matures in mid-September. Old-timers said it was the first such occurrence in 25 years.

The 2014 PNs are a bit young but approachable now: J. Christopher Nuages or Dundee Hills Cuvee or Lumiere or Appassionata are all good picks, but my fav was the Sandra Adele. Other 2014 Oregon PN names to look for are Dusky Goose and Domaine Drouhin Cuvée Louise, Beaux Freres and Arterberry Maresh. Maresh Vineyards are terrific, both rate 95 McD points.

Please be sure the labels read exactly as seen here. There is, for example, Arterberry Maresh Weber Vineyards at 93 points and Arterberry Maresh Dundee Hills at 90 points. All three are priced appropriately, and perhaps the Weber at $35 is the best bargain. Another 95-pointer is Ponzi Aurora 2013, but at $100/bottle I would look elsewhere.

Although Oregon produces wonderful PN and lots of it, there is a paucity of Chardonnay. Those in the know may find this surprising because in most regions, Pinots both Noir and Chardonnay are usually planted in fairly close proximity. When the terroir is right they enjoy similar success.

However the initial effort with Chardonnay back in the ‘70s failed to take into account Oregon’s shorter, cooler, damper growing season, and acidity was a huge issue.

In the ‘80s a bunch of French winemakers came in to produce PN and they immediately perceived the problem. They added clones more familiar to Dijon and Macon (Pouilly Fuissé) and today are producing some mighty nice Mâconnais-style wines.

The best of these are richly but subtly flavored, nicely textured with lively minerality. Fortunately for my little Chardonnay Droogies, we located a couple of excellent Chardonnays to fill in a case. Top among them was Domaine Serene Evenstad Reserve Chard 2014, a very solid 93-point lovely. At $60 it was just out of range for adding a price point, but fairly valued. Domaine Drouhin Arthur Chard 2014 is a bargain under $26. Lovely bouquet of lemon drops, white flowers, a touch of honey and vanilla. On the palate, medium bodied, round and richly textured, with great balance, finishes long and clean. It will drink well thru 2022.

Finally and best for last, 93-point McD Adelsheim Caitlin’s Reserve 2014, a Dijon-clone chardonnay, is all about pineapple, guava, and macadamia nuts.

I was pleasantly surprised to find a $43 Chardonnay of this quality. RRs are well aware that these big, rich, warm, full-bodied beauties are the only style Chardonnay I enjoy.