Santa Margherita Pinot Grigio Alto Adige 2015 makes a very nice summer swiller with a fair price. Medium straw in color, delicate bouquet of citrus and mineral, clean and crisp, medium-bodied, lively, dry, medium well-balanced acidity, bright fruit flavors, clean acidic finish. Try with sushi, flounder, or rock. They won't need added lemon. For those who envy the lives of the rich and famous, I have it on the QT that the Hamptons crowd is big on Wolffer Estate Summer in a Bottle Rosé 2016. I tried a bottle and it's another decent cheapy. A complex Rosé blend of six varietal juices, oodles of pure, fresh aromas of peach and pear, it's from Long Island; find it for $22, McD 90 and I'm guessing your banker or broker ain't drinkin' any. Don't confuse with the Wolffers from Mendoza, Argentina - half the price, two-thirds the quality.
Lots of recent news on the 2010 Bordeaux. Those with good memories may remember my advice in a fall 2015 column to eschew the 2009 in favor of the 2010. The faithful will be delighted to learn that many of the 2010 are ready to drink now and their prices have declined. Chateau Canon La Gaffeliere Grand Cru St. Emilion 2010 is a wonderful example. RP and Molesworth laid on a 96 and 95. Previously the 2009 came in at $126 and rose to $149 when everyone extolled its virtue. The '10s came in at $100 and leapt to $155 on the critics' acclaim when they were still five years too young. Recently they are declining in price. I attribute this decline to the "new star," the 2015, about which the usual suspects are waxing effulgent. I have seen Canon 2010 on sale at $119, if you buy by the case. It will cellar thru 2036 or more. Still dark-colored, but the aromatics are starting to open. A complex bouquet with blackberry, cherry, briar, licorice and a soupcon of toasted oak-driven spices is supported with a full-bodied, silky, mineral spine and slightly elevated tannins. Color and tannin say, "I will last," and they have started to come together with the fruit. Gilles Pauquet is the consultant. Several of the less informed have likened him to a "garagist" because of his lab work. Those ignore his primary credential of winemaker at Chateau Cheval Blanc. Winos will be aware CCB is one of four Premiere Grand Cru in St. Emilion. They may not know it has nearly identical terroir to Chateau Petrus, probably the highest-regarded of all Bordeaux. Here's a comparison: CCB 2010 $1,000/bottle; Petrus $3,000 at auction. I'm not trying to conflate these three wines, but I am here to tell you I've never had a bad offering where M. Pauquet was involved.
You read it here first. The St. Julien Chateau LaGrange 2015 is killer, and those who move now, and have patience and storage would be well served to buy a mixed case of 2014, '15 and '16. The '16 is their best ever; I think around 96 points. The grand poohbahs write 92-96. The low-ballers are nuts. You should be able to round up a case through your wine shoppe pal. Pay up to $600/case of 12/4 each.
Finally, Edmund wrote to ask about oak and its differences. This is broad brush but a decent start. Aged in 100 percent French oak - Spending more money on barrels helps remediate wine that is more tannic, full-bodied, often from fruitier juice and normally showing a bunch of barrel aromas and flavors. Aged in American oak - Look for vanilla, usually a softer finish. When the wine ages, American oak will often lend white the characteristic called buttery. A pluperfect example of the best use of American oak is the wine produced by Silver Oak, especially the Alexander Valley label. Many Rioja makers prefer American oak now, as well.
Aged in French and American oak barrels - This is a cross bet by fabricators trying to get more tannin and sweeter aromatics. One usually sees this when wines are huge, alcoholic, and fruit flavors and colors from extraction are high. This is brief but more than enough for most readers. Those who wish to know more can go here: www.fs.fed.us/wildflowers/ethnobotany/documents/OakAgingAndWine.pdf. Please keep in mind this was developed by a winemaking company.
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Email John at chjonmc@yahoo.com.
