Replica wines - fun or fraud?

Some may remember I admire W. Blake Gray’s writing. A thoughtful wine writer, Gray’s recent article titled, “Do replica wines taste like The Prisoner and KJ” is worth exploring. First, replicants are chemically reconstructed or blended wines that closely resemble famously named wine. Second, as I’ve written on many occasions, trust your own palate or a well-chosen writer who recommends QPR over name recognition and high price points. I wrote of Rudi Kurniawan, the convicted vintage “big name” very expensive, old wine scamster who tricked most of the famous wine experts and several prominent buyers into sanctioning and purchasing his rebottled, scientifically concocted wines. Rudi used authentic bottles, corks and labels he collected, then reused. This is illegal, and I denounce Kurniawan. He deserves the jail sentence, no doubt. All that said, he was an excellent forger both of product and packaging. I think the severity of his sentence had more to do with the “egg on faces” people he tricked. You see, most truly enjoyed the wine and wrote glowing accounts of the tasting. He was caught out due to the amounts he sold, approaching an entire vintage’s production. Gray’s article is worthwhile because it provokes the issue, does it truly matter how the wine is made or which row the grapes came from or who the winemaker is, if it tastes terrific. Many claim arranged scarcity is just a scam of money grubbers. I have pointed to the proliferation of the practice for several years. Gray has probably done a better job. You can locate the article here: www.wine-searcher.com/m/2016/07/do-replica-wines-taste-like-the-prisoner....  A Liza Zimmerman article is also informative on this subject: www.wine-searcher.com/m/2016/07/synthetic-wine-even-better-than-the-real....

We had some tuna and porterhouse steak broiled on oak with sweet corn and a local produce salad with a bit of salt and cumin this past Sunday. I pulled out a bottle of Henry’s Drive Shiraz 64 percent Cab 2010. You can locate this 92-point lovely priced under $20. It is like stealing. Fairly complex aromas of plum, black cherries, caramel and floral nuance, on the palate dark chocolate and pepper plus the aromas repeat. Tannins/oak/acid very nicely balanced. Will cellar at least through 2020. We also evaluated a pretty Portugese Quinta da Ponte Pedrinha Reserva 2011. Ruby red-colored with black fruit aromas plus some gravel, smoke and pie spice. Shows palate of refreshing acidity, proper tannic grip and a cleansing finish. I was surprised to find red wine of this caliber priced under $20, 89 McD. Another surprise, Trivento Cabernet-Malbec Reserve 2014 was priced under $115/case. Dark ruby-colored, it opened to plums and a tad of oak-driven vanilla, on the palate relative balance. As you know I’m no big fan of Malbec, but in this case the Cab seemed to moderate the tannic bite. And served with oaky, smokey steak, the balance was palate refreshing. It stood up to the seared (high society term for mild burning) tuna. I did learn that sweet corn is really not a great food choice with these reds though. Still, local corn is dessert, hold the salt and butter.

Finally, BV BeauRouge 2010 won a bunch of medals and the price fluctuated wildly. If you bought some when I recommended it, drink over this year please. Originally I thought they would keep well through 2018 but recently, I’ve seen no improvement. That said, they are still drinking well. If you find any and they are priced under $25/bottle they are still 89 points and enjoyable.

A gent named Lester asked about 2008 Georges de Latour Private Reserve that I heavily touted at $85 in late 2011 and placed on the Grove Market wine list. He said his was flat. I explained to Lester that these were in the “dumb period” and needed aeration to release their captured qualities. He bought a bottle.

After decanting, in about an hour it started to open up, and what a beauty he found. He even poured me a glass. Here is what I found. Brilliant garnet color, aromas developed were blackberry, cherry, cassis, mocha and licorice.

Full-bodied palate with black cherry, cocoa and sweet oaken flavors. Very long finish, flavors repeat. Tannins and oaken notes are nearly incorporated. These rose to $125 and have settled back to $98-100. Initially most writers said 93-95 points; drink through 2020. These are a great buy now for big-buck buckaroos.