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WINE

Sometimes local producers can win big at wine events

February 15, 2016

Awesome folks! I was happy to see so many RRs (regular readers) in Rehoboth for Polar Bear. You folks are the best. In case you missed it this year, slightly more than 3,500 participants raised $820K, up from $780K last year. That will go a very long way toward supporting the efforts of Special Olympics Delaware. I remember the initial event back in 1992. There were well under 100 people and we raised about $7,000. Big props to all the Rehoboth businesses who helped drive this event. Also wish to make readers aware many of the participants are not Rehobotheans. They come from all over Sussex County, upstate Delaware, Pennsylvania, Maryland and New Jersey, to be part of this event. I’m unsure how many were witnessing but it looked to be in the neighborhood north of 2,000.

For the after party, Chez McD served up some “Bambi’s dad” chile, guac salad, tortilla chips and corn pone. I picked up several IPAs and a lovely Chianti. Strike the Chianti, we had that earlier with the liver and fava beans. I served a 2010 BV Beaurouge. It appear this wine is made from the remains of eight varietal juices: 52 percent Cab, 14 Zin, 13 Syrah, 10 Merlot and some each of Petit Sirah, Touriga, Tempranillo and Charbono. As you can imagine, the nose is quite complex. Deep purple, ruby-colored with a mixed bouquet of currants, dark chocolate, cherry/berry and a spicy pepper oak. Fruit forward with firm tannins; the Merlot was successful in widening the mouthfeel. Although the wine is 14.5 alcohol, it was neither jammy nor hot. Beaurouge 2010 is well balanced with a long, clean finish.  I found it locally, priced very reasonably, under $20. A lot of wine for the price, 91 McD. I bought four more bottles on Monday. Other raters were pricing these at mid-$20s-$30 and 89 points. I agree with this assessment. Keep in mind that while many critics don’t give price points, they often judge at events which are flighted by price. Participation in these events prompted my use of price points. Often the winners of each price category are reflighted for the best-of-show review. Although the cream rises, in most cases, there are many instances where some unheralded local small producer takes the day. I would avoid the 2012. A decent wine, but you can do better at the price point.

RRs may remember that back in the day, when Tenuta Dell Ornellaia were affordable for me, I was a huge fan. Truth is, the wine is still entering the market at about $175, and the 2008 that I recommended at $165 with a 97-point review is now selling north of $220. They are still not in their drinking window; it starts in 2018. I’m being patient. Recently I sampled a 2013 Le Volte dell’ Ornellaia, the second label, priced around $26. It is blended of 50 percent Sangiovese, 40 percent Merlot, 10 percent Cabernet Sauvignon. Vintage to vintage, Le Volte consistently ranks around 90 on my scale. Good example of winemaker’s art. The 2013 will benefit from laying down a few years. If you enjoy these , a wise buyer would try to purchase a case of two each: 2010 at 89 points; '11 and '12, 90; and six 2013, best of group at 92 points and not quite ready. Shop this and enjoy. Interesting nose with floral and herbal twist, some lilac, cherry, a tad of pie spice and berries. It opens on the palate to currants, a hint of chalk, and mocha riding a round tannin, medium acidity frame through a fairly long, fruit repetitive finish. Again the use of merlot did journeyman work to soften and smooth the palate. Le Volte 2013 is an excellent QPR when priced under $28. Please shop these carefully. Some, I found while researching pricing, perhaps trading on the Ornellaia name recognition, are pricing them over $50.

Email John McDonald at chjonmc@yahoo.com.

 

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