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Support fire-damaged California producers by buying their wines now

October 23, 2017

The fires in Napa, Sonoma, Mendocino and Lake counties have been in the news. As of Tuesday, Oct. 17, 30 wineries have been damaged or destroyed. Those that may be familiar to you include: Chateau St. Jean; Gundlach Bundschu; Paradise Ridge (total); Darioush; William Hill (whose burning sign went viral on the news but the facility actually had minimal fire damage); Stag's Leap major, still assessing vineyards; and Signorello lost all buildings but vineyard may make it. I will provide more once the fires are quelled and my friends can catch their breath. The situation is more tragic for "wine people" than the media is reporting. As you may remember, I visit the Cali wine regions from time to time and have a small group of acquaintances living there. Needless to say, due to the deaths and extensive damage, the entire area is in mourning. These are farming areas reminiscent of most tightly knit communities of Sussex County in terms of the people who live there. The residents share time at events and are acquainted. Please take a moment to say a prayer or give a moment of contemplation for those folks. 

While the reporting has been accurate, few are alert to the issues surrounding the cellaring of wine and its exposure to smoke and heat. At this point, no one is certain how much damage has been done to the unbottled wine aging in barrels, and the huge amounts in cellars, containers and fermentation cold tanks. In many cases, the climates are maintained by electrical appurtenances, and in others in "cave" storage. As you can imagine, the electric failed in a great many locations and the ambient temps were off the scale. The smoke was also pervasive, especially in the valleys and canyons. We're hoping the damage is minimal. I'm guessing it will be a month or so before news is accurate.

Let's start with some housekeeping. It would be wise, for those who are able, to lay in a supply of your favorite Napa and Sonoma labels. The tragedy there will certainly drive up prices, and our friends can use the cash flow now.

Please read “Misbehaving: The Making of Behavioral Economics" by Richard H. Thaler, a professor of behavioral science and economics at the University of Chicago. Thaler won a Nobel Prize in 2015 for his work. The last time the economics Nobel - officially known was the Sveriges Riksbank Prize in memory of Alfred Nobel - was awarded for pioneers in behavioral economics was 2002. My initial interest was sparked while reading his bio when he won the award. Therein I learned Mr. Thaler lists his interests as "golf and fine wine." When asked how he would spend the attached stipend, he joked, "I will try to spend it as irrationally as possible!" I figured any economist who was frivolous with money, and loved golf and fine wine was an oddity worth a look. Don't panic; the book is one of the few on economics that I can actually say I enjoyed. 

Those who enjoy charcoal-roasted swordfish or tuna with caper butter should look for Scammacca del Murgo Etna Rosso 2015, which is made from an ancient varietal grape, Nerello Mascalese, grown on the slopes of Mount Etna in Sicily. Bright ruby red, with strawberry, black pepper and clove bouquet. On the intense, lively palate look for red fruit repeat, with highlights of spices and earthy minerality that runs through a long finish, 89 points around $15. The 2013 I rated 90 points, and there is still some around at $17. Galloni said 91 points. If you want to support a Cali producer, look for Ridge Geyserville Alexander Valley Zinfandel; the best recent are 2011, 92 points; ‘12, 93; ‘13, 91; and ‘14, 92. All can be found around $40. A cooperative wine shop pal might put together a mixed case. Look for dark berry and spice on the nose, with loads of dark berry fruit and a little pepper and roasted almonds on the palate, framed in a structure of ripe, integrated tannins. These will age well 8-10 years, no problem. Don't look for much price appreciation. These are consumer food wines.

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