Tasting unusual wines with unique backstories

Sosie (so-zee) wines are very interesting. Prior to tasting two, I read a lovely puff piece describing the boutique winery and the owners/winemakers Regina Bustamante and Scott MacFiggen. Excellent article! In addition to learning about the winery, I was instructed on the characteristics of three Pinot Noir clones. I have several wines to cover today, so I will leave the story for those interested: https://pullthatcork.com/2019/sosie-wines/. Sosie Spring Hill Vineyard Sonoma Coast 2015 is made to express the terroir. Only five barrels were made, using no amendments. Although there was some sulphur, and barrel aging was employed, the wines went through natural fermentation with no acid, enzymes or extra tannin added. Following is the part that was instructive to me. They chose three of the seven clonal varieties available to gather the juice: Swan for its aromas of raspberries, strawberries and cranberries; Calera for texture, earthiness and pronounced acidity; and Pommard 5 for weight, color, and dark, plummy flavors. Whole-cluster fermentation left me surprised at light color and tannin levels. I was salivating just reading of their process. The wine spent 16 months on 25 percent new Louis Latour oaken barrels. A clear, medium-ruby color with a lovely bouquet of cherries, raspberries and an earthy note which the producer claimed was reminiscent of beets. On the tart, medium-bodied palate, more cherries and berries, some herbal notes and black tea. Tannins slightly elevated but time will deal with them. This $43 suggested retail is worth the search, 91 McD points. Sosie also produced four barrels of Roussanne. Selling around $38, McD 87. Pale golden with stone fruit and mineral nose. Look for melon, quince and spice notes supported by pronounced acidic backbone and some malolactic roundness. Long clean finish.

Masseria Li Veli is located in Salento, Puglia, in the heel of the Italian boot near the ancient Roman seaport of Brindisi. They produce some varietal wines you may be unfamiliar with. Let’s start with the Passamante Negroamaro 2016, 88 points, under $14 add 1 price point. This lovely has been 88 McD since the 2009 vintage. The 2016 is dark ruby with a prolific bouquet of ripe red fruit, mostly cherries accented with pie spice. The palate is round with smooth tannins and bright acidity to support all and clean up the long finish. Their Askos Susumaniello 2016 gets 90 McD. Ruby-red-tinted purple, it opens to mixed bouquet of black currant, raspberry, sour cherry and anise with rhubarb and leather accents. Tannins and acidity well balanced. Li Veli also produces a nice white, Askos Verdeca Valle d’Itria. These also have been rated 88-90 points since 2009. The 2017 is bright green-tinted yellow with redolent bouquet of tropical fruit, citrus, pear blossoms. Well-balanced fruit/mineral acidity and mildly spicy, with a slight salty tang in its finish. Reminded me of the 91-point Galloni 2011, 90 McD, $24. Askos is the name of a project aimed at rediscovering and marketing Apulian varietal wines that were once widely cultivated but have fallen into obscurity. I am delighted they are doing so, as they are delightful.

Last but far from least, Long Meadow Ranch Napa Valley Sauvignon Blanc 2018 and 100-plus-degree weather went well together with a baked halibut and miso rainbow rice salad. The 2016 won Best of Class at San Fran Chronicle wine comp. The sprawling wine properties are owned by Ted and wife Laddie Hall. Their story is worth reading. The 2018 has a different profile but looks like an award winner also. This is a more typical European look. The nose is very slightly grassy with citrus, apricot and trop fruit for the Cali twist. Bright acidity supports the aromatic nose promulgated with the use of long cold fermentation of a very long ripened crop of 100 percent SB. 

Here’s a link to the halibut recipe. Don’t be daunted; it is quite easy to make and delicious. One caveat. Only make the amount you plan to use. It will refrigerate but is half the flavor, and the colors fade. Use blender! https://americanlifestylemag.com/bites/meals/halibut-miso-rainbow-rice/.