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Tony Galloni does great red wine reviews

July 25, 2016

The Barefooter Commodore Owens and a covey of pals and gals slid into Grove Market. I was flattered when they made their wine selections because one mentioned he read my column and asked what did I think of his choice. A clever writer would have responded, “If you did you would note I gently chide all my lovely RRs that what truly matters is whether you enjoy the wine.” I’m only a direction sign along your road, my friends. Whether you enjoy the route and the trip is solely up to you. However, one of the highlights of my other job is the number of friends who come to Grove Market to dine then stop to wave or chat. Occasionally I am quite busy and focused. Don’t take my inattention as a slight. Cooking in a restaurant has a rhythm. When the rhythm is broken, someone’s meal may be compromised. Reading, remembering, cooking and chewing gum simultaneously is my limit.

Lindeman’s Bin 85 Pinot Grigio 2015 is a bargain buy priced under $8. It is pale green-tinged, with jasmine, ripe apple and floral blossom aromas. On the palate nectarine, apple and pear evolve into a clean, long finish with grapefruit notes. This is a porch sipper to keep on hand. A case might set you back $85. I sampled this with a diverse crowd of family from 26 to 74, boys and girls, and all of us were impressed. A lot of wine for the money. Drink it chilled around 48 degrees F.

Remember when “everyone” drank Boone’s Farm, Sparkling Burgundy, Blue Nun, Pouilly Fuisse, Cali Cabs, Shiraz or Merlot? I can usually guess your age by which category you choose. A recent look in the wine left behind category, where I store the last bottle of a case, odds and ends, and stuff the “utes” pals are allowed to drink at 2 a.m. found a bottle of Frogs Leap Rutherford Napa Valley Merlot 2011. I wrote it at 91 points in winter 2013, when it came on at $34. The wine is lovely now, and the price is up at $40. Poor filing system for sure. Still a good buy. Winemaker John Williams still produces true-to-terroir wine. Look for plums and red currants, and a clean, long finish. Tony Gallons gave the 2013 92 points. Says lots of plums. I saw it on sale at $32 and Mr. Galloni is a very talented red wine reviewer. I have not sampled the 2013 yet.

RP rated Chalk Hill Estate Proprietary Red 96 points. He wrote, ”45 percent Cabernet, 30 percent Malbec, 12 percent Petit Verdot and the rest Carignane, Syrah and Merlot. A spectacular dense-purple color and sweet toasty oak intermixed with licorice, blackberry, cassis and graphite are all present in this … blend that should age effortlessly for 25-30 or more years.” The wine spiked into the mid $60s but slid back to the $46-49 range, where it is a fine QPR. I would expect these to sell for $80 or more by 2022 or so. If you are a speculator, buy a case and store it carefully. Do not mar the case.

Here is a very interesting article on oak written by Nova McCune Cadamatre, in Snooth: www.snooth.com/articles/your-wine-it’s-all-about-the-oak. This article and the others listed by Cadamatre are well worth the read for folks who are interested in wine. If you made it here that would be you.

Finally, I refuse to rehash the news. It is heartrending and pervasive enough. I hope you will take time out from your busy day to pray for “peace” for the survivors and eternal peaceful rest for the victims. We need a revival or a Chautauqua, in the manner of Teddy Roosevelt. Instead we are enduring one as described by H.L. Mencken, who wrote, "When they essay to be jocose, the result is usually an elephantine whimsicality, by the chautauqua out of the Atlantic Monthly." He used the word with a lower case “c” as he claimed to describe “a herd of clumsy writers.”

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