Value and quality-price ratio are not the same
Recently there has been a flurry of requests for decent Malbec that is top flight with QPR value. Dona Paula Estate Malbec, an Argentinean Malbec, is a top pick for me. My notes read: deep dark purple, with aromas of plum, chocolate, nutmeg, with some soy and licorice flavors, chewy tannin, medium body and a clean, long finish. While I’m not a big fan of straight Malbec, the blends are often very appealing. These can be found under $14, and they are 91 plus 2 price points at $14 or less. Drink now.
I wrote up Sanctus de la Bienfaisance St. Emilion Grand Cru 2008 a few years back. Recently I stumbled across some of the 2010 and decided to buy a bottle. At $50 I say a 91-point score is about right. These are produced from a special parcel of Chateau Bienfaisance of 65 percent Merlot and 35 percent Cab Franc, then aged in 90 percent new oak. Plums, berries and gravel on the nose followed by licorice and berry flavors through the finish. I was surprised that although they are at 14.5 percent alcohol there was no heat in the pleasing finish. RP laid a big 94 points on the 2012 but so far, I haven’t sampled any.
Knez Demuth Vineyard Anderson Valley Mendocino Pinot Noir (peanut of the night, I love it) 2012 is on the market under $45. Knez has produced 92-point Demuth in each year, 2009-12. Any vintage of those is a winner. I found it interesting, while doing some research, that you can purchase any of those vintages for approximately the same price, with the exception of the 2011 which I saw online at $35. The 2012 is medium garnet colored with raspberry, cherry and floral nose. On the palate, more cherries perhaps some raspberry and cedar hints. Fine tannins, mineral notes and acidity balance the fruit. They finish with a bit of spicy cedar. Knez also makes PN from the Cerise Vineyard. The 2012 showed sour cherry, high acidity and a cottage cheese sort of flavor. Although I did not enjoy them, several at the tasting were enthusiastic.
Mazzocco Dry Creek Valley Zinfandel 2012 is a terrific example of traditional Zinfandel. Lovely dark garnet with a bit of crimson, it opens in the glass to black currant, cherry, cola and hints of lilac aromas. These lead to boysenberry, currant jam, mushroom and hazelnut flavors riding a delightful frame of bold tannin, proper acidity and spice. These won double gold at San Fran Chronicle Wine Competition, but many of the wine press were hard pressed to provide 88-90 points. Mazzocco came on at $30 and has since fallen off into the $22 range; they are ready to drink and a wonderful QPR at prices under $25, McD 93.
Big-buck buyers may wish to research Trefethen Hillspring Vineyard Halo 2009 blended of Cab 92 percent, Petit Verdot 5 percent and 3 percent Merlot with 28 months in new French oak. I always have a tough time reviewing these huge, oaken, tannin bombs, but many readers enjoy the profile. My notes read: very dark purple, Cab and vanillin nose with huge tannin, viscous legs, and good acidity. Needs time in cellar maybe 7-10 years. These do not seem to improve in value as does the Oak Knoll Reserve, and I think it is because they come on in the $150-200 range. Although there is value here, as you all know, I would rather shop for better QPR.
Celler Capcanes Mas Donis Barrica 2013 is a great example of better QPR. They can be bought well under $14. Regulars know I am a fan of Celler Capcanes. One of my gurus, Stephen Tanzer, consistently rated them 88-90 points starting back in 2001. These don’t age well, so only buy what you can drink over the next year or three, if you like them. A deep ruby, Grenache/ Syrah (30 percent) blend with a mixed nose of raspberry and black olives. On the palate medium body, red fruit, soft tannins, a bit of oak spice and chocolate in the clean, long finish, 92 McD points. Roll Tide!
Email John McDonald at chjonmc@yahoo.com.
