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Year-end wine rankings raise many questions

November 21, 2016

Did you know that Wine Spectator’s top 100 is published in the Dec. 31 edition each year? I always look forward to seeing how many of the wines I reviewed made it to the list. In 2015, you read of 16 here before the list was printed and 13 more after they had been exposed. I took a look around to see how these are faring now in the scheme of availability and pricing. The number in parentheses is today's average price as found in Winesearcher. Those who moved quickly on Au Paradis (came in at $197, now $447) hit a home run. Also Quilceda Creek Columbia Cab 2012 ($28-$165). Shop for this; I have seen some under $80. Il Poggione Brunello di Montalcino 2010 was $25, leaped to $97, fell back to $39 and is now at $93. The best buys here are the 2011s. There will be no Riserva in 2013 and ‘14. The prices on 2010 and ‘11 should continue to move up. Don't mistake Rosso di Montalcino for Brunello, Mt. Eden Santa Cruz Chard, and Aalto Ribero del Duero. The buy here is the 2013. The 2010 made the list but they are sold out. Same rating on 2013 and a similar profile. You will be happy to learn these are 5 of the top 6 choices. I missed No. 3, Evening Land Pinot from Eola, Amity Hills Oregon. What a dope. We actually visited the vineyard.  

The picks I felt best about were those which had best QPR. No. 16 Taylor Fladgate NV Late Bottled Port at 94 McD points cost a scant $25. Rombauer Carneros Chard 2013, also 94, $36 placed No. 35. The $33 Mulderbosch Chenin Blanc 2013 that I truly enjoyed and went on and on about was No. 63. I was disappointed here, because I had rated it much higher, 95 points McD, than the 93 WS awarded. Wine writers and raters as a group can be such snobs sometimes. If it ain’t Chard, Cab, Burgundy, Sauterne, Champagne or Riesling, ya just can't squeeze more than 93 points out of ‘em. Even more discouraging were the No. 78, $30 Ch. St. Jean Alexander Valley Cab ‘12, WS 91, McD 93, and the No. 65 Chappellet Signature Cali Cab 2012, WS 93, McD 92 due to price point of $56. No. 97 Orin Swift Machete 2013 was rated 93 at $48.  

Do you see a theme here? How in heck can you place lower-scored wines sold at higher prices further up the list? So much for lists, I guess. The value choice for me was the Schloss Vollrads Spatlese 2013, WS 91, McD 93. This was a stunning wine and priced at $25, a true bargain but only ranked 91 on the list. I'm looking forward to this year's issue. 

Some top bets for this year: Bodegas y Vinedos Valdirez Ribero del Duero, 2011, their latest release, is on the market at $25. Tempranillo is becoming better known and these are 93-94 points. Came on at $10 and when Thomas Matthews WS wrote them at 94 the price spiked to $27. They are findable under $25 and I expect you will be buying at least $40 value regardless of Top 100 status. Please get some in and when you like it buy a case. This is classic Ribera del Duero and will cellar through 2026. Another candidate may be Giacomo Ascheri Barolo DOCG 2012. The ratings here ranged from 92 from Suckling to WS 94.  

These need time. Will drink from 2019 thru late 2030s. A great 18th birthday gift if you can keep dad's hands off it. As I mentioned before, I bought each of my children age-worthy wine and we enjoy them on each birthday. Now that they are over the "barbarian" stage it is a true pleasure for all of us; 94 points McD. Look for strawberry, plum, saddle leather, a touch of cherry and tar aromas repeating on the palate, supported with smooth but still chewy tannins and a good fruit/acid balanced frame. Finish is a bit tannic now but color and fruit tell me the wine will come together nicely in the next 5 years. Here's wishing all a very Happy Thanksgiving.

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