Za’atar has complex, unique flavor

A few weeks ago, my friend Kit forwarded an article from The Week magazine about a Middle Eastern spice blend called za’atar. The author discovered the seasoning on a visit to Palestine, where it’s used in abundance. Pronounced za-ah-tar, the word is the name of a wild species of thyme that grows in the area. It’s now one of those words that refers to both the plant and the spice mixture.

The blend includes ground sumac, sesame seeds, salt and dried za’atar. Since you can’t find that specific variety of thyme in the United States, most commercial versions substitute a mixture of thyme with oregano or marjoram. You can find za’atar in the spice aisle of most large grocery stores and from several online retailers. Or, you can ask a friend traveling to the region to bring home some of the authentic mixture.

A balance of different tastes gives za’atar a complex and unique flavor profile, featuring nutty, woodsy, floral and acidic hints. It’s both aromatic and tangy at once. Most Middle Eastern cookbooks call for za’atar as the key seasoning in a wide range of dishes, from marinades and roasted vegetables to an olive-oil spread for flatbread to a breakfast favorite mixed with strained yogurt called labneh.

Since I had some za’atar in my spice cupboard, I thought I’d try using it in a recipe from the most recent edition of Bon Appetit, za’atar chicken. The result was very tasty, and I loved the flavors of the za’atar, especially when mixed with yogurt. The only thing I would change is to substitute chicken breasts for the thighs and drumsticks, which had too much gristle for my taste.

In the article that started me down this path, the author included a recipe for za’atar roast salmon. What I found interesting is that both preparations of a protein seasoned with za’atar were balanced with a creamy-textured element on the plate. The chicken was placed on a swirl of garlic-infused yogurt and the salmon was served with slightly mashed cannellini beans.

Both dishes also included lemon wedges as garnish and lemon zest as an ingredient. When I was choosing which recipes to share here, I noticed that the labneh and roasted potatoes also called for lemon juice or zest, again making the point of how the bright flavors of za’atar are enhanced with a punch of fresh citrus.

Although the process for making labneh may sound cumbersome, it is well worth the time and effort. Many of today’s Greek yogurts have been strained into a thick consistency, especially as compared to traditional yogurt. But, you may be surprised at how much additional liquid drains off during the 24 hours, and you’ll love the creamy texture.

Roasted vegetables and beans all roast nicely with a coating of za’atar and olive oil. The recipe below calls for Yukon gold potatoes; you can use the same approach for other vegetables (e.g., butternut squash, cauliflower) and canned beans (e.g., garbanzos). The salmon recipe is a good choice when you’re in a hurry; everything comes together in less than 20 minutes.

For the chicken in the photo, I’ve modified the Bon Appetit recipe slightly to reflect changes I had to make (e.g., higher oven temperature, reduced quantity of onions). Although I didn’t make this with chicken breasts, next time I surely will. Thanks to Kit for the inspiration.

Labneh

12 oz plain Greek yogurt
pinch sea salt
1/4 t lemon juice
3 T olive oil
1 T za’atar

Line a fine strainer with three layers of cheesecloth and set over a bowl; set aside. In a mixing bowl, stir together yogurt, salt and lemon juice. Spoon mixture into the cheesecloth and fold over the edges to cover completely. Place the bowl with strainer in the refrigerator for 24 hours. Remove the bowl from the refrigerator and transfer labneh to a serving bowl. Use the back of a spoon to create a decorative swirl on the surface. Drizzle with olive oil and sprinkle with za’atar. Serve with warm pita wedges.

Za’atar Roasted Potatoes

1 1/2 lbs Yukon gold potatoes
3 T olive oil
1 t sea salt
2 T za’atar
1 t lemon zest

Preheat oven to 400F. Line a baking sheet with aluminum foil. Cut potatoes into quarters and scatter on foil-lined pan. Drizzle with olive oil, salt and za’atar. Toss to coat evenly and spread the potatoes into a single layer. Roast for 35 to 45 minutes. Sprinkle with lemon zest and serve.

Za’atar Chicken*

4 chicken legs
salt
1 red onion
1 lemon
1/3 C olive oil
2 heads garlic
1 1/2 C plain Greek yogurt
1 clove garlic
1/4 t salt
1 garlic clove
3 T za’atar
1 t ground coriander
1 t lemon zest
1 t lime zest

Preheat oven to 350 F. Separate chicken legs into thighs and drumsticks; pat dry with paper towels. Season liberally with salt and place in 9-by-12-inch roasting pan. Cut onion into 1-inch wedges; add to pan. Quarter lemon and add to pan. Drizzle olive oil over the pan and toss to coat completely. Cut garlic heads in half crosswise and place in the pan, cut side down. Roast for 55 minutes. Place yogurt into a small bowl and grate in 1 garlic clove. Add salt and stir to combine; set aside. Remove baking pan from oven and transfer onions, lemons and garlic heads to a plate. Return pan to oven and increase temperature to 425 F. Grate remaining garlic clove into a small bowl; mix in coriander, lemon zest and lime zest. Remove pan from oven and transfer chicken to a cutting board to rest for 10 minutes. Pour off 1/3 C of pan juices and whisk into za’atar mixture. To serve, spread yogurt on a platter, set chicken pieces on top and coat them with a generous spread of za’atar mixture, scatter onions, lemons and garlic heads. *adapted from Bon Appetit

Za’atar Salmon*

2 salmon filets
1 T olive oil
salt & pepper
3 T za’atar
2 T butter 
1 crushed garlic clove
zest of 1 lemon
14-oz can cannellini beans
salt & pepper, to taste
lemon wedges

Preheat oven to 400 F. Line a baking sheet with aluminum foil and place salmon on top, skin side down. Season to taste with salt and pepper; drizzle with olive oil. Generously coat the tops of the salmon filets with za’atar. Bake until just cooked, about 12 minutes. Melt butter in a medium skillet over low. Add garlic and lemon zest; cook until fragrant, about 1 minute. Drain beans and add to skillet; season with salt and pepper. Cook until heated through, about 5 minutes. Use a potato masher or fork to roughly mash half the beans. To serve, place half the beans on each plate, top with salmon filet and garnish with lemon wedges. *Adapted from The Week.