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Holiday sparklers don’t have to cost a lot

December 26, 2016

Merry Christmas! Happy Hanukkah and happy holidays. In an effort to pack in as many sparkling wine ideas as possible for New Year’s Eve, I’m referring you to an article in Snooth, one of my go-to e-publications. Go to www.snooth.com/articles/the-difference-between-value-and-cheap-sparkling.... Regulars will note that several of the wines covered have already been reviewed here. In addition, look around for Graham Beck sparklers from South Africa. Both the Brut NV under $13 and Rosé Brut NV under $15 are excellent European-style sparklers. Although many of the renowned critics were handing out 85 points plus or minus, Barbara, a bunch of pals and I, your down-to-earth tasting panel, thought these were excellent. All were surprised when I announced the prices. As usual, Jancis Robinson was on the money. She and Tanzer are stingy with points. Their definitions are closer to my taste buds.

I’m saying 87 with at least 2 price points. A great choice for a wedding pour. Oddly, most of the raters judged the Brut Blanc de Blanc at the same score, give or take a point. The Rosé is a terrific oyster wine with tiny bead effervescence and a lovely raspberry nose. On the palate, cherry/raspberry flavors are supported with bright acidity, a bit of yeasty lees, mineral and lavender. Both are made using the Methode Cap Classique. Read of it here: www.sawinesonline.co.uk/find-wine-by-type/sparkling-wines/methode-cap-cl....

Also, if you celebrate Christmas Eve with the seven fishes, please consider some previous recommendations that made WS top 100: No. 11 Hamilton Russell Chard 2015, $37; No. 28 Domaine Carneros Brut ‘11, $15; No. 43 Chas. Smith Kung Fu Girl Riesling, $11; No. 51 Chapoutier Bila Haut Roussillon ‘14, $15; No. 60 Jos. Drouhin St. Veran 2014, $16; and No. 71 Korbel Organic Brut, $13. All are food friendly and ready to drink. For those who prefer red for that standing rib or a big fat goose or even those skinny, locally shot Canada geese, try one of these: No. 10 Hartford Family Zin ‘14, $25; No. 67 Hahn Santa Lucia Highlands Pinot Noir ‘14, $30; No. 69 Lemelson Thea’s Selection ‘14, $30; and No. 96 Nicholas-Jay Willamette PN ‘14, $65.

If Hanukkah is your holiday, take a look around for No. 93 Galil Mountain Jiron ‘13. The 2010, $32 won gold at the International Wine Challenge in 2014, and I expect them to repeat with the ‘13 blend of 62 percent Cab, 31 percent Merlot, and 7 percent Syrah. It had 16 months in French oak, bouquet of black cherry and blackberry, on the palate balanced, slightly herbal with oak-driven vanilla, 91 McD, $30.

I sampled Galil Mountain’s entire lineup back in March. My notes had them from 87 to 90 points. The Viognier was 88 points, a fine QPR under $18. The Alon dry red ‘12 got 2 price points, 90 McD. It can be found around $18. Avoid the Chardonnay. Merlot not available in USA. If you must have a kosher, Israeli Chardonnay look for Recanati.

The 2011-14 are all in the 88-89-point range, with 1 price point when priced under $17. 2014 notes read: Pale straw gold with tropical fruit, a touch of caramel, and hazelnut aromas. These are full-bodied, balanced, with a long, smooth finish.

For those who don’t celebrate either of these holidays I would like to recommend a beautiful Sonoma PN that goes well with a crown roast of pork, lightly smoked turkey, blackened salmon, woodland mushrooms (chanterelles, cepes, porcini, and maitaki aka hen of the woods are a few you may find in the store), along with the ubiquitous champagnes and portobelli. Sauce forestiere made with these is remarkable.. A very flavorful mushroom found in the wild is the tawny grisette. If you wish to pick your own, make sure you know what you are doing.

Many grisettes are poisonous. The tawny must be cooked to become edible.

Anyhow, look for Viansa Sonoma PN reserve series 2013. Won gold at Sonoma Autumn Fest in 2015. Can be found under $30, $28 on their web page. Look for strawberry, raspberry, forest floor aromas that flow into plum flavors with barrel spice, vanilla and mushroom-flavored nuance. The finish is pleasingly long with hints of vanilla and cola. These are remarkably well-crafted and good QPR.

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