Cauliflower is this year’s darling

If you have been browsing the popular cooking websites or culinary magazines this time of year, you’re bound to find various annual lists of food trends. Some are organized into two-column comparisons of what’s in and what’s out, while others compile snippets from bloggers and chefs touting their prognostications about the restaurant scene and their favorite ingredients for home cooks.

From the National Restaurant Association, we’ve heard about “creative condiments,” which roughly translates to house-made mustards and artisanal ketchups, not necessarily new, but perhaps more popular. Whole Foods is banking on coconut - from water to milk to oil - as both beverage and cooking staple. James Beard expects the return of classic French cuisine and a renewed focus on beef.

Of course, one of the focal points of all this conversation is the vegetable du jour - what is this year’s darling? We’ve been through kale and Brussels sprouts, both distinctive flavors with an affinity for assertive partners like raisins and bacon. This year’s feature is the unassuming cauliflower.

The compact white heads of cauliflower we usually see in the markets and grocery stores are just one variety. Cauliflower can also be a delicate green color or brilliant violet - but they all share a similar quiet flavor.

When I conducted a completely unscientific survey, the feedback on cauliflower was quite mixed. Some people shook their heads while pursing their lips as if in pain. Others shrugged their shoulders indifferently. Every once in a while, someone would smile and extoll the virtues of buttered cauliflower.

Without a noticeable flavor, cauliflower is best paired with stronger companions, such as the Asian tastes in the recipe featured in the photo - cauliflower fried rice. For this dish, like most that begin with a head of cauliflower, there will be kitchen mess. In our house, whether slicing a head to bake or snapping off florets, cauliflower dust spreads in every direction. I tried to be careful making the fried rice recipe, trimming florets and tossing them into the food processor bowl, but some of the pieces are so small, they fly off onto the floor, the counter, the cat’s water dish. It required careful exploration on hands and knees to recover all of the residue.

When I offered Jack a sample of the finished dish, I neglected to tell him that there was no rice in the “cauliflower fried rice.” As you may imagine, he commented that it was hard to taste the rice. I found it a wonderful surprise: the delicate texture of cauliflower combined with the assertive Asian flavors of soy sauce and toasted sesame oil.

I’ve included three recipes here - the camouflage fried rice, a roasted carrot and cauliflower side dish, and a way to convert the roasted vegetables into a hearty soup. Let’s all welcome the year of the cauliflower!

Cauliflower Fried Rice

1 head cauliflower
1 t olive oil
2 eggs
1 T toasted sesame oil
1/2 C diced onion
2 minced garlic cloves
1/2 C frozen peas & carrots
4 sliced scallions
3 T soy sauce

Remove and discard the cauliflower core. Trim the florets and spread in a single layer on paper towel to dry for about 10 minutes. Add the florets to the bowl of a food processor and process to small grains the size of couscous; set aside. Be sure not to overprocess or the mixture will be too wet and mushy. Whisk the eggs in a measuring cup until smooth; set aside. Heat the olive oil in a large nonstick skillet; add the eggs and cook until set. Remove to a plate. Add sesame oil to the same skillet; add onions and white part of the scallions. Cook until translucent, about 5 minutes. Add garlic, peas and carrots; cook until soft, about 3 minutes. Add cauliflower and soy sauce to the pan, tossing to combine. Raise heat to medium high, cover and cook until lightly browned, about 5 minutes. Add the cooked eggs and stir to combine; cook an additional 2 minutes. Serve garnished with scallion greens. Yield: 4 servings.

Roasted Carrots & Cauliflower

1 head cauliflower
1 bunch carrots
1/2 t white pepper
1 t kosher salt
2 T olive oil
1 T snipped chives

Preheat oven to 400 F. Line a baking sheet with aluminum foil; set aside. Remove and discard the leaves and core of the cauliflower. Trim into uniform-size florets. Spread the cauliflower on the baking sheet in a single layer. Trim the carrots and cut into 1-inch pieces on the diagonal.

Add to baking sheet, keeping everything in a single layer. Sprinkle vegetables with salt and pepper; drizzle with olive oil. Toss with a spatula to coat all the pieces. Bake for 15 minutes. Toss the pieces again and return to the oven for another 15 minutes. Serve garnished with snipped chives as a side dish or use in quiche, omelet, soup or risotto.

Carrot & Cauliflower Soup

1 T olive oil
2 diced shallots
3 C roasted cauliflower florets
1 1/2 C roasted carrots
3 sprigs thyme
2 C vegetable broth
1/2 t white pepper
salt, to taste
juice of 1/2 lemon
paprika for garnish

Heat olive oil in a saucepan and sauté shallots until wilted, about 5 minutes. Add the roasted carrot and cauliflower florets; cook for about 5 minutes. Sprinkle with thyme, pour in the vegetable broth and bring to a boil. Lower the heat, cover and simmer for 20 minutes. Remove from heat and puree until smooth using an immersion blender. Add lemon juice, pepper and salt, to taste. Garnish with paprika. Yield: 4 to 6 servings.