When choosing wines, don’t buy the hype

Hi, race fans! You may remember the article on the eponymous Lewis Cellars Chardonnays 2014. I recommended at the time to eschew the Reserve, 93 McD points, in favor of plain Napa Valley, 94 McD, and save $20/bottle. A recent review of both by a panel of Cali experts claims the Napa is “better” than the Reserve. More fake news. Truth is, folks, these are quite different. One is made for drinking now, and the Reserve is for the cellar. The good news is the Lewis Cellars Reserve Chard 2015 is better than both the 2014s. Best, you can find it under $65. 2015 Reserve is lovely golden and opens to ripe pear, gardenia, cedar box spice and brioche aromas. Creamy-textured, well-structured, round, full palate with lees and oaken spice flavors. One of my gurus wrote “succulent,” and that came to mind as I savored the wine. Beautiful, long, clean mineral finish, 95 McD under $66. The Lewis Sonoma Russian River Valley is nothing to sneeze at either, 93 points McD under $35. A careful search showed cases of the 2011 Randy Lewis Race Car White Sonoma County Chardonnay for sale at $389, 91 points. Be careful with the provenance (by whom and how they were cellared). 

    Not Denise, the Foodie or Denephew, but this recipe was so good I must share it. Set convection oven to 400 degrees or 450 for no fan. Gather 1 cup each 3/4-inch cut asparagus tips lightly poached, grated mild white cheddar, and chopped leeks (white and pale-green parts only). Sauté leeks in 2 T butter, add 2 T all-purpose flour and using 1 1/2 cups milk, make a white sauce. Reserve hot, stir in cheddar, 14-ounce can chopped artichoke hearts, drained and rinsed; 1/4 cup fresh peas; 2 T each chopped fresh chives, mint, flat-leaf parsley; 1/2 teaspoon finely grated lemon zest; and 2 oz. crumbled Montrachet goat cheese. Season with salt and pepper, but be careful, as many of the ingredients are already salty. Turn all into a 5-cup baking dish. Decorate with asparagus tips and dot with 2 more oz. Montrachet. Bake at 450 degrees 15-20 minutes. Let stand 10-15 minutes before serving with mixed crusty breads and a wonderful Brut sparkler or a dry Sauvignon Blanc. Ste. Michelle Horse Heaven Hills SB 2015 is excellent. These folks make consistently lovely SBs usually under $16. The 2015 is pale yellow with green highlights. Opens to grapefruit, pear and peach with hints of honeysuckle and ginger aromas. On the palate, grapefruit and lemon peel flavors ride a juicy, acidity-rich frame highlighted with mild salinity. Finishes cleanly, repeating the ginger and adding a touch of quinine 91 points McD. That recipe will improve as the local peas and asparagus come on. 

    The 2015 Marchesi Antinori Solaia just came in at 98-99 points. Immediately, many wine shop owners are trying to unload their 97-point 2013 with ads screaming “What a bargain!” If you are in this expensive market, don’t fall for it. While the wine is lovely in both cases, the best, in my opinion, was the 2010 with the 2007 not far behind. Both are just entering their drinking window (2018 and 2020, respectively), and their prices have not changed much, if at all, since high praise from the claque caused them to escalate. The 2007 came in at $265, now at $283, and 2010 at $276-283. I’m guessing the 2015 comes in higher, and there may be a slight downtick in the others. In fairness, I have not sampled the ‘15s. I generally don’t buy in the big-bucks buyer market. Super Tuscans such as Solaia, Ornellaia, Sassicaia and Tignanello are primarily Cabs (80 percent) and can cost well over $150 per bottle. If you must be in these, take a look at Tenuta dell’Ornellaia Bolgheri 2008. They are in their window; they were rated 97 points by Galloni and Parker, and are findable under $180. I did sample these in 2011 and rated them 96 points. I have enjoyed many Chianti Classico Riservas that are on par with their Super Tuscan cousins and priced well under $30. Don’t buy the hype, my friends. Buy great wine and cellar it.