Cline Ancient Vines Zin is perfect for cellaring

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My family had a terrific meal at Back Porch this past Sunday. Regulars know we are fans. For 43 years, Keith and Marilyn, along with their faithful crews have produced a consistently top-flight product with good service in a pleasant atmosphere.

As usual, they didn’t disappoint. I particularly enjoy Back Porch’s extensive wine by the glass list, one of the best in the tristate area. We always sit at the bar initially so Bee, their rookie bartender who’s only been with them 41 years, can lead us down the primrose path of wines we haven’t tried yet.

Tuna season is approaching. I just sampled an excellent pairing wine, Domaine de la Mordoree Tavel La Dame Rosé 2016, 89 McD points when bought under $22.50. I saw a quote, “The reddest pink you’ll ever drink,” a perfect description. Opens to red fruit and floral notes. On the round, finely balanced, vibrant palate, the fruit repeats with stony minerality and plenty of acid lift. FYI, Tavel lies in France’s Southern Rhone Region and is known to produce many fine, dry Rosé wines. In addition to grilled tuna, these go well with pork or chicken prepared on the barbecue.

Tenuta dell’Ornellaia Le Volte 2013 gets 91 McD points priced under $27.50. This is a lovely Bolgheri Tuscan red.

The ‘13 reminds of the 2011. If you bought the ‘11 on my recommendation a few years ago, drink it this year. 2013 was a difficult year in Italy, with spring rain delaying bud break, then extreme heat, then August rain and cooling, but the fall seems to have bailed out the patient producers. Le Volte was about two weeks late in its pick. WS, WE and WA were uniform, granting 90 points. Blended of Merlot, Sangiovese and Cabernet Sauvignon, this is dark-colored with intense, diverse aromatics. The bouquet is dark berry fruit, spices and brush. On the juicy palate, blackberry, cherry, clove and dried herbs ride a nicely balanced frame of smooth tannins and appropriate acidity. It finishes long and clean with reverberations of fruit and minerality. I think a year lying down would help, but these are definitely drinkable now.

Years ago, I had the pleasure of meeting a guy who represented Cline. This was long before Little Red Truck or Jacuzzi. When Fred and Nancy Cline first started, using their small inheritance from their hot tub grandpa, they planted (contrary to most other growers in the area) Mourvedre, Marsanne, Rousanne and Viognier. Fortunately they grafted on to the 100-year-old Zinfandel vines in plots around Oakley, Calif. In the ‘80s they moved into Sonoma from the family ranch in Oakley. Not only did they strike off to a new region, they also planted more traditional clones such as Merlot, PN, Chard and Syrah. They also came up with the wine marketing success story of at least the decade, Little Red Truck, a winemaker’s blend of whatever was lying around that took the country by storm. The best attributes of Cline Ancient Vines Zin Contra Costa County are: They consistently score 88-89 points; they can be found under $15, and they are very food friendly. The most recent release is the 2016. However, I found the 2013 locally and it is ready now. Deep purple-colored with black cherry, strawberry, and dark chocolate nose, leads to a palate of strawberry with coffee and chocolate plus ripe fruit, soft tannins and subtle vanilla from aging in new and old oak. Will easily cellar for five years. If you cellar, Ancient Vines Zin is a perfect candidate. You could buy 2013, ‘14, ‘15 and ‘16, three each, and get a case discount or have a vertical tasting party or two. Happy Mother’s Day!