When pairing wines and foods, strive for harmony

I just read an ad for a Grand Cru Alsatian blend. Marcel Deiss Mambourg 2011 for $40 is blended of juice from extremely low-yield Pinot Blanc, Pinot Gris, Pinot Meunier and Pinot Noir fruit from magnesium-rich limestone soils. This Alsatian is very rich and precise on the concentrated nose, which shows a hint of new oak hidden in a complex bouquet of ripe pears, almonds, peaches and honey. On the palate, tangerine, lemon and honey flavors are supported by bright minerality and acidity. These were selling at $90 a few months back. When the 2012 and ‘13 came in at higher ratings, the price on the ‘11 dropped like a stone. Scoop these up if you are able. As with White Burgundy, these age well. They came in at $61, got the old hoohah from the “expert” critics and blasted off to $86 in November 2016, so $40 is stealin’! They compare favorably to the 2008. Sale ends Monday, June 26 at midnight.

Pat Stanley recommended an $8 bottle which has been named one of the best in the world in the British paper Daily Mail. Pat said it was on sale locally at $8, so I bought a bottle. Who can resist a best in the world for eight bucks? Here’s the blurb: “The Exquisite Collection Cotes de Provence Rosé 2016 won the Great Value Rosé under $10 at the International Wine Challenge and earned a silver medal in the main IWC. The wine, produced by Jules Wines, won the award after two weeks of blind tasting by a judging panel at the IWC.” Although I did not have high expectations, I found this to be a nice little wine. The producer, Jules Wines, packages wine from all around the world. Go to www.jules-wines.com. I truly favor his thinking and methods. Definitely worth a read.

Here’s a blast from the past. Just enjoyed a Williams and Humbert Dry Sack Solera Especial Oloroso Sherry, 15 years old, with a killer flan (creme caramel made with condensed milk). Most Oloroso are full-bodied, lush and delicious with flan, creme caramel, most custards, cheesecake and drizzled over butter pecan or vanilla King’s ice cream. Layers of toffee, butterscotch, dried fruit, and caramel oozing along through a very long, reverberating, slightly sweet finish. These are 20 percent to 20.5 percent alcohol and definitely will warm the cockles of your heart.

Recently, Tom, an RR, asked for pairing advice. This is always difficult because most of it is driven by your individual palate. I’m a very strong opponent of the old saw, “red with meat, white with fish.” Why, you may ask? Two of my most memorable meals are Tournedos Rossini with Sauternes and a Black Sea Bass (Black Willie) poached in Pinot Noir. Following is a very broad-brush approach that will work for most of us: Tart dressings and sauces with Sauvignon Blanc; Lobster and light steak fish, Chardonnay; Sweet and spicy, Dry Riesling or Gewurztraminer; Shellfish, dry Pinot Grigio, Pinot Gris or Blanc, lower Loire Valley whites, especially Sancerre, Pouilly Fumé or Muscadet from the estuarine part of the valley, and Chablis; Highly herbal, Gruner Veltliner and white Rhone; Rich cheese sauce or cheese & fruit plates, Cote Provence Rosé; Earthy, woodsy or cherry, Pinot Noir; BBQ, Malbec, Cote Roti, Zin; Tomato, Provençal or Espagnol, Zin, many Sangiovese-based Italian reds; Broiled or roast lamb & beef, daubes, ragus, Cabs, Merlot, red Bordeaux; Turkey, duck, sausages and pork, Alsatian whites.

Finally, I have been to many prestigious food and wine affairs. Often the well-intentioned host will pair a big old red or a lovely old Chardonnay or white Burgundy with an outstanding, complex, gastronomic menu. There are very few, including me, who can enjoy such extravagance while fully exploring the complex interplay of aromas, flavors and textures this presents. My advice is to pour the exceptional wine as a stand-alone. Try to find wine that complements and enhances the menu items you are serving. Neither the individual food nor the wine should stun the senses at a proper pairing event. Being a good host means looking for harmony, balance and contentment.