Garlic chives can perk up many dishes

While I don't recall planting them, the evidence appeared last week when a drift of white blossoms opened at the tops of the chives in my garden (see photo). Earlier in the summer, we had flowers resembling rounded clumps of purple spikes, so this had to be a different variety. Looking more closely, I noticed variations in the shape and size of the bright green stalks - some were thin and round, while these were flatter and slightly broader.

Growing practically on top of each other were two members of the allium family: chives (purple flowers, round stalks) and garlic chives (white flowers and flattened stems). With a long history as a popular ingredient in Asian cuisine, garlic chives are often called Chinese chives or Chinese onion.

The name chives comes to us from the French "cive" derived from "cepa," the Latin word for onion. But, unlike their onion cousins, chives do not have a noticeable bulb at the base. They're more like green onions (scallions) or leeks with their flattish, white base. Chives are the tiniest members of the allium family, and with their diminutive size comes hints of onion flavor and a delicate texture. In addition to the green stalks, the flowers (either white or purple) and unopened flower buds are also edible. Chives are best used raw or added at the very end of the cooking process.

If you're harvesting chives from your own garden, collect them early in the day when they're freshest. Set them in a glass of water or wrap in a moist paper towel in the refrigerator until you're ready to prep them for your recipe. Most instructions call for chives to be "snipped" because scissors don't mangle the stalk the way a knife can. Without a garden of your own, you can find chives in the herb section of most markets where they're sold in small clamshell boxes. Although these are not as fresh as homegrown, they're a better choice then frozen options.

One way to capture the essence of chives and give yourself a cooking shortcut is to make a compound butter. Mix finely chopped chives into a bar of softened butter; roll it into a log in wax paper and keep in the refrigerator. Cut off chunks to melt over steamed vegetables, baked potatoes or grilled steaks. Chives are a lovely garnish for many dishes, from deviled eggs to creamy soups. Whisk snipped chives into a traditional vinaigrette for both color and taste interest. Mix chives with lemon juice to drizzle over grilled shrimp or fish. Use some of that chive butter to jazz up corn on the cob.

I've included a few recipes featuring chives that will work with either variety, but keep in mind that garlic chives have a slightly stronger flavor. Also, if you harvest garlic chives, their flavor will intensify if they're left in the refrigerator for a day or two.

One last thought about chives - they are symbolic of abundance and eternity, which may explain why they have overtaken my herb garden and spread between the pavers in our walkway. If you decide to grow these vigorous perennials, be sure to keep them in check or you'll have enough to supply an entire neighborhood.

Pasta with Chive Cream Sauce 

1 lb angel hair pasta 
3 T butter 
2 T flour 
1 pressed garlic clove 
2 C vegetable stock 
1/4 C sour cream 
1/4 C snipped chives 
1/4 C chive blossoms 

Cook the pasta according to the package directions for al dente. While the pasta cooks, melt butter in a saucepan over medium heat. Whisk in the flour and pressed garlic; continue cooking until thickened and slightly golden. Pour in the stock and stir until well blended. Cook until reduced by one-third, about 5 minutes. Whisk in sour cream and remove from heat. Stir in chives. Drain pasta and place in a serving bowl. Pour sauce over pasta and garnish with chive blossoms. Yield: 4 servings.

Chicken Cutlets & Chives 

1 T butter 
1 T olive oil 
4 boneless chicken cutlets 
salt & pepper, to taste 
1/4 C snipped chives 
2 T lemon juice 

Melt butter in a skillet with olive oil over medium high. Pat dry chicken with paper towels; season on both sides with salt and pepper. Place chicken in the pan in a single layer and cook until golden brown, about 3 minutes.

Turn chicken over and continue cooking another 3 minutes. Sprinkle chives over chicken and deglaze the pan with lemon juice. Yield: 4 servings.

Garlic Chive Pancakes  

2 eggs 
1 C flour 
1/4 t salt 
1 C water 
1 large bunch garlic chives 
1 T oil 
soy sauce, for dipping 

Whisk eggs in a mixing bowl until fluffy. Add flour, salt and water; whisk until smooth. Trim ends from chives and chop into 1-inch pieces. Add to the batter and stir to combine. Heat oil in a 9-inch nonstick skillet over medium low. Pour 1/2 C of mixture into the pan, tilting to spread batter evenly. Cook about 4 minutes each side, turning once. Repeat with remaining batter. Serve with soy sauce for dipping. Yield: 3 to 4 pancakes.