Chardonnays to suit all palates and pocketbooks

Big surprise today. I'm devoting the space to Chardonnay. I just sampled a nice little Chilean Chardonnay, Arboleda 2015. After jotting down my notes, I perused some others’ reviews. I was quite surprised to read the following, which I have synopsized. Decanter claimed: nose has spicy notes of clove, cinnamon and fresh toast. layered, vigorous, with harmonious flinty, salty, citrusy and almondy character. Profound, savory-sweet as really good Chardonnay can be, 95 points. Suckling described it: shows sliced apple and pear aromas with hints of stone and mineral. Medium to full body, lively and very intense with bright acidity and lemon rind, 93 points. I don't have any idea what these folks were sampling. My read is: pale golden with green tint, orange blossom, white peach aromas with some pear and sea breeze. Nicely balanced. supported by tight acidity and terroir-driven minerality, 91 points if you can find it under $15. I prefer you search for $11 Storypoint Chardonnay. Smooth and aromatic with flavors and aromas of ripe green apple, pear and white peach embellished with citrus and honeysuckle. Subtle hints of vanilla, caramel and toasted oak linger on the silky and refreshing finish.

Going a bit upscale is Louis Latour Montagny La Grand Roche 2015. The pale yellow 1er Cru La Grande Roche has a floral plus exotic fruits and almonds nose. On the palate, fat and round with a hint of pepper, and long finish cleaned up by proper acidity, $18, 91 points McD. As usual, La Crema Sonoma Coast 2015 rings the bell. Floral, lemon, green apple nose with hints of oak and barrel spice. On the palate white stone fruit, lemon and honeydew melon supported with good concentration and balanced acidity that clean up the long finish, 89 points at $17 McD. The 2013 and ‘14 weren't quite as good, 87 points. For those who prefer the tropical fruit Chards, my best value is the very consistent Kendall Jackson Vintners Reserve. KJ has been a consistent winner in the under $14 Chard category as long as I can remember. The 2015 has a lovely honey, vanilla nose that evolves to pineapple, mango, and papaya with citrus accents bursting on your palate like an extra-ripe grape. A hint of toasted oak reverberates through the long finish, 91 points McD. Avoid the 2012, and don't pay up for the 2015 Grand Reserve. I rated them 89 points.

Following are two slightly upscale Chardonnays from one of Cali's new darlings, Gavin Chanin. Recently Chanin was named to Forbes' 30 Under 30 in Food & Wine as well as a winemaker to watch by the San Francisco Chronicle. He was an award-winning art student while in college, and each wine has his art on the label. Chanin made his bones as assistant at Au Bon Climat where he was taught by Jim Clendenen and at Qupé under Bob Lindquist; both are iconic producers. Chanin was stolen away by big-time entrepreneur, big-buck buckaroo, conglomerate wine guy Bill Price. I found it ironic they named their venture Lutum. Anyhow, Anthony Galloni loves his wine and I admire Tony Gallons' taste buds. Search out either Chanin Chardonnay Los Alamos 2014, 95 points under $425/case, or Chanin Chardonnay Bien Nacido 2014, 95 points under $505/case. I preferred the Los Alamos - aromas of ripe pear, quince and citrus zest with flinty minerality and a touch of jasmine repeat on the mid palate. Pitch-perfect balance of fruit and acidity with hints of salinity. 

I think in fairness, it is time for a red. Vineyard Block 822 Reserve Cabernet 2015 hails from the Alexander Valley, home to Jordan and Silver Oak. Its advantage is that it doesn't have the lofty price tag. One reason the price is low, the wine has no true pedigree other than Alexander Valley. This is an example of winemaker’s art. The wine is blended from juice selected from various vineyards in the AVA, then aged, bottled and sold. Deep purple with dark cherries, black currant and mocha with hints of cedar and spice aromas, the 822 is full-bodied, balanced with chewy tannins, blackberry and forest floor on the palate and a smooth, long finish. Although these are approachable now, color and tannins say they will cellar.