Intriguing wines from off the beaten track

Thank you for positive feedback on paragraph bashing bankers. I did neglect you on the wine info stream. So, this week will be more reviews than usual. Let’s start with a couple from the Alto Adige region of Italy. Kellerei Nals Margreid Kerner Sudtirol 2018 can be found around $17. Kerner may be new to you. It is a crossbred varietal wine between Riesling and Schiava Grossa (Trollinger) bred in 1929 for colder climates. Named for a poet and composer of drinking songs, Justinus Kerner, it began to rise in prominence in the 1990s.This bottling has the refreshing acidity of a Sauvignon Blanc and the fruit characteristics of pear and peach to balance, 88 McD. Please serve around room temperature, 65 degrees. If you see anything from Traverse City, Mich., named Michigan Left Foot Charley Kerner, check it out. Did you know Michigan is the USA’s seventh most productive wine region? Left Foot Charley Island is well known for apple cider and hard cider, but the Riesling, Blaufrankisch and Pinot Blanc are often worthwhile. 

Another off-the-beaten-track varietal wine is Cantina Termino Kellerei Tramin Lagrein Alto Adige 2017, a good value around $16. Garnet-colored red, it shows a complex earthy bouquet with cocoa, chocolate and truffles. On the palate, look for raspberry supported by polished tannins riding a round, full body, 87 McD. Those who wish to go upscale can look for Terlano Porphyr Lagrein Riserva 2015, $67, 93 McD. Very dark ruby with black rim, opens to cherries, plums and blueberry with hints of barrel notes, licorice, vanilla, clove and coffee. A concentrated bundle of spicy, smoky, fruit flavors nuanced by tobacco, black pepper and chocolate. All are supported by smooth tannins through a long finish. Based on the very dark color, I was surprised at the subdued nature of the tannins.

Walter Hansel Cuvée Alyce 2016 has come off its price and can be had around $35, but you’re gonna hafta look for this price. Try Gwine. It is remarkable to me that just as these lovely chardonnays hit their best window, the price declines. My kind of old-style chardonnay. Steve Hansell claims the 2016 harvest was of BB-sized grapes, very small for Chardonnay. As usual, they used whole-cluster pressing, oak for primary fermentation with natural yeast followed by about six months’ malolactic fermentation, 12 months sur lie, no racking. WA 95, Galloni, Vinous, 93, wrote, “gorgeous, needs a few years to come into its own.” McD ready in 2019, I just enjoyed some in September and gave it 94 points. Grapefruit, apricot, warm bread, ginger nose evolves to medium body with trop fruit, barrel spice flavors and a very long, almost unctuous mouthfeel, yet clean finish with some nut flavors.

Quinta do Vesuvio Vintage Port 2016 won high praise, 93 points, and is on sale at $80. Big whoop! The 1995 also garnered 93 points, is available for $84, and its window is 2015-25. Do not confuse label with A Capela da Quinta do Vesuvio, the top label; those will run you $145. Ms. Jancis wrote up the 2011 at 19 (110 Parker) and ready 2030-55. I’m an optimist, but at age 77, the odds aren’t so hot for me. The 2016 is available in Claymont, 98 WS, $199.97. I’ve seen some for $146.

Regular readers are aware I’m a big fan of Trisaetum in Oregon. Barbara and I were the sole group sampling, three years ago, on a lovely April day. The winery is on a promontory overlooking the terraced vineyards and a beautiful foggy valley. Fortunately, we met Alice, the manager. She just notified me that Trisaetum hit it out of the park in the December 2019 Wine Enthusiast, soon to be released. Three each 94-point and 93-point winners. I’m not surprised! This was one of the presenters at the Vintage Import Portfolio Tasting in Philly, which is great news for us because the wine should soon be available here. I’ve reviewed those available now. Some may wish to front run, as prices at stores will likely escalate or worse, they may sell out. Trisaetum’s entire production is 8,500 cases. The 94-pointers are: Wichmann Dundee Estate Riesling 2018, Wichmann Dundee Estate Dry Riesling 2018, and Family Reserve Pinot Noir 2017. The 93s are: Estates Reserve Pinot Noir 2017, Coast Range Estate Riesling 2018, and Coast Range Estate Dry Riesling 2018. Hopefully we get an allocation and some local merchants sell them. Was Halloween fun? Nothing like giving the costumed children very large chocolate bars and 16-oz. Cokes, then sending them home.