A sampling of Ports to cozy up with by the fire

Sad news – SCOTUS refused certiorari on Lebamoff  v. Whitmer. In plain language, they chickened out on deciding whether interstate shipping of wine by other than big, monied interests was constitutional or not. By remanding back to lower courts, the decision will be deferred for several years. There are several other challenges working their way through the bogged-down, inefficient system. Most thought SCOTUS would hear this case because the 6th Circuit had basically scoffed at a previous 7-2 ruling by the Supremes. Those interested can read a fairly comprehensive discussion here: wine-searcher.com/m/2021/01/us-supreme-court-backs-off-shipping-case.

The results of this cowardly decision (it really is an Interstate Commerce Clause decision) and the cold weather prompted me to add some more Ports to your list. I’m sitting in front of a fire as the global warming gently covers the deck, typing and sampling. Today’s selections are in the more affordable categories. Point of info, searches for Port on major sites are up 34.5 percent over the past five years. Recognizing that those $100 prices on Vintage Port are tough to swallow, they can be far more palatable once one recognizes the comparative values. Try buying any other wine rated in the high 90s, 95+, that needs cellar time, for $80-$100. If you locate any, get back to me, puhleeze! 

Late Bottled Vintage Port comes filtered or unfiltered. There is a great deal of discussion over the merits of each. I’m on the side of unfiltered because I think the sediment, which one must decant, adds many nuances to the finished product. These are wine that were scheduled for bottling as Vintage Port, but lack of demand caused them to be left in the barrel usually four to six years past the vintage year. As a result, due to the extra oxidative aging in the barrels, we can experience the pleasure of drinking a Vintage Port without long cellaring. Those labeled “bottle matured” must also have minimum three years in the bottle. They age nearly as well as Vintage Port. While it improves the wine, it is unnecessary. Brown bag (blind) tastings including an aged LBV bottle have often surprised the experts. I loved a Rupert Symington comment on young Vintage Port, "...like 100 people in a room, all screaming." To which Margaret Rand responded, “But if you put it in the fridge right now while it's young, for half an hour, then have a glass on a warm evening, you will be amazed.” 

Here is a listing of LBV Port you can find. There are many others. Most, irrespective of vintage, are 89-90 McD. Shows average price: Dow’s, $23; Graham’s, $26; Fonseca, $30; Ferreira, $25; Quinta do Noval, $26; Taylor Fladgate $25 and Warre’s, $30. If you can only locate 2017 or ‘18, buy two or three and drink one each in 2021-23. 

There is a similar product out there labeled Crusted Port. Blended of outstanding young ports from two or three harvests, these are left to mature in the bottle, which forms a “crust” as they age. Most of the houses discontinued the product several years ago. The 2015 is available from the following: Fonseca, Niepoort, Butler Nephew, Dow’s and Churchill’s.  For folks who bet the lottery, grab some Fonseca Bicentenary Edition Crusted Port; it came in at $20, recent sale $53. By comparison, Taylor Fladgate Crusted 1972 came out in 1976 at $8, was $153 in January 2016. Recent sale December 2020, $380. I have seen bottles from the “50s and ‘60s in the $600-plus range. Past may not always be prelude, but with Port it frequently is. In addition, being labeled Bicentenary Edition will add value. My best choice, to drink now or cellar, is Graham’s Crusted 2013. Still opaque purple with dark ruby rim, opulent bouquet of ripe blackberries, plums and rose hips, nuanced by cigar box aromas. On the palate, black fruit and dark chocolate, supported by appropriate acidity and firm tannins with a very long, puckery finish. Color and tannins say it will last for 20 or more years.

Bidenized from Rob Sinclair, Trulia: Miley Cyrus just bought a home, with vines, in Hidden Hills, home to Rupert Murdoch’s Moraga Estate Bordeaux blend red, rating 88-91 since 1993 at about $137. Others residing there are Etheridge, Spears, Drake, Bieber and the Kardashians. Rumor has it Miley may be making hemp wine, or if a red, it will be named Chateau Twerk du Pape. "Since when has not actually knowing anything been a barrier to incisive journalism?"