Screaming Eagle has struck again in price

Regulars are well aware I enjoy reading Oliver Styles’ work. Ironically, it was an article, appearing as a link on the page, written by another favorite, W. Blake Gray, eulogizing Jim Clendenen of Au Bon Climat May 18 which caught my eye first.  Barbara and I had the distinct pleasure several years ago of spending a few hours with Jim at the Bien Nacido Vineyard, Santa Maria Valley, Calif., where his winery is located. A larger-than-life man, best described as a Bon Vivant, who made wonderful wine. Go here for these excellent articles.

You will find Styles’ piece on the same page.: https://www.wine-searcher.com/m/2021/05/clendenen-a-huge-loss-for-california-wine. Regular caveat, be sure to read the entire Gazette first, especially the ads. Then support local merchants. Why, you may enquire? A recent roadside sign said it all for me.  Asking, when is the last time the big national chains poured money into the local charities, kids sports, arts, etc.?

And back to Styles’ piece. Perhaps too much aromatic arcana for some readers. If so, please go on to the following wine reviews in the next paragraphs. Titled, “The other aromas of winemaking,” Styles brings the reader into the fold of differentiating the smells rarely discussed by most winemakers, and even fewer critics. Seen any burning rubber, Marc, and festering drainage aromas described lately? You folks all know that wine is a living organism. Even after fermentation changes its vitality, it continues to evolve. Aging! My lesson today, the French distinguish between lees in a way I have glossed over. The lees we like, (sur lie) are from the post fermentation solids that impart aromas and flavors we enjoy. Then there are “bourbes” or “gross lees.” Although I was well aware of these as well, it never occurred to me the whys. Anyhow Styles, in typical iconoclastic, informed fashion tells us all we need to know about both. I think even casual winos will enjoy both of the articles.

Stags’ Leap Winery’s The Investor Red Blend 2018 is comprised of 40 percent Merlot, 32 Petite Sirah, 18 Cabernet Sauvignon and Malbec; all were vinified separately then aged 20 months in a variety of oak barrels, 35 percent new. As one would expect, there were plenty of oak-driven pie spice aromas and flavors. Dark ruby colored, it opens to a mixed bouquet of berries, with an herbal undertone. Plenty of tannic grip, but somehow the softening of the Merlot makes it approachable now. Cellaring will improve it. A lot of wine in the mid $30s 90 McD. The Investor has enjoyed several years of 88-90-point ratings. 2018 is new release. The 16 and 17 are also 90 McD. 

Justin Vineyards and Winery in Paso Robles is best known for Isosceles, its Cab blend, and Justification, an excellent Cab Franc/Merlot blend, also makes a Sauvignon Blanc that won’t break the bank. The 2020 will set you back $17, McD 87. Made of sourced juice. Winemakers’ art blend. Look for citrus and tropical fruit opening with herbal nuance. Bright mineral frame supports all through a clean finish. 

Here’s one for ya. Screaming Eagle has struck again with its 93-point Sauvignon Blanc 2017. Available at Acker Merrill for $4,794/bottle and that ain’t no typo. Continuing its skein of SB that is 90 and low 90s and selling as high as $7,500. depending on vintage, makes me question the sanity of its fan club. While I recognize my plebian taste buds and parsimonious purse may have added calluses (cateracts) to my jaundiced eye, there is no way in hell I’m spending $4,794 for an expert rated, 91 anywine from yesterday’s bottling. RP wrote 98 points for the 2017. It’s in its window, he claims. OK so here’s some of my top California Sauvignon Blanc selections with suggested retail. Fiddlehead Gooseberry $38; York Mt. Vella Chelle Mountain, $40, 93 McD; Merry Edwards RRV $38, 93 McD; Spotteswood $45; Sea Fog, a Thomas Rivers Brown made $35, 93 McD; Hall Knights Valley $35, 94; Mondavi To Kalon Oakville Reserve, $55, 93; and Peter Michael L’Apres Midi 2018 $64, 94. For the math challenged, I took the highest priced L’Ares price and divided it into Squawking Seagull. A scosh, Japanese from sukoshi. under 75 bottles. Choosing my best recommendation, Hall, it comes to 137 bottles. Stop wasting your cash; buy eight mixed cases, possibly more of these named selections, and stop feeding the seagulls.