Take a bite off the beaten path

As a weekly columnist, I’m always complimented (albeit a little surprised) when a reader asks me to address a particular subject I wrote about in the past. But, there it was, big as life in my email box: “What happened to your hidden gems articles?”

Though I did hang my head in ignominy, I have to tell you that knowing what will – or will not – hit a nerve is an inexact science. A couple of years ago, what started out as a lighthearted culinary romp through some of our neighboring towns ended up generating a flood of emails and texts questioning, criticizing and even adding to my list of off-the-beaten-path finds. In spite of my brilliantly crafted disclaimer citing space restrictions for not including every last restaurant in the tristate area, I did feel a few pangs of guilt for missing a few places.

One of those is The Backyard in Milton. Situated on Route 16 halfway between Beaches Seafood and Po’Boys Creole, this friendly spot is known for hearty breakfasts and lunches. Beaches in Milton also qualifies as a hidden gem because of their particularly good crabcakes and occasional live entertainment. Milton’s tucked-away Dough Bar is also a favorite. If you can find Irish Eyes, just peek behind it, and there’s Dough Bar. Though pizza is their thing, they have a wide variety of other goodies including burgers, cheesesteaks, sandwiches and down-home entrees.

Let’s venture north to Dover for a few of my favorites: Chef/owner Dennis Forbes’ Cool Springs Fish Bar is truly one of the best seafood spots in the state. In fact, when the cameras in Ellendale were turned off for the day, Food Network celebrity chef Robert Irvine escaped to Chef Dennis’ place. Forbes prepares your food in a totally open kitchen surrounded by bar seats. Scoring one of those is tantamount to digging up the Holy Grail. If you’re feeling a bit more casual, his daughter hosts the Restaurant 55 burger joint right next door. Don’t leave without a cupcake! I can’t leave Dover without shouting out to Royal Prime Steakhouse in Bally’s casino and the always reliable Mission BBQ.

Waaayyy down south in Seaford is quite possibly the best French restaurant around. Chino and Karen Pedemonte’s Bon Appetit checks all the boxes for refreshingly unpretentious country French. It’s well worth the drive. Also in Seaford is Dona Maria’s Pupuseria. Not unlike Fredy Garcia and Joaquin Cortez’ Cabañas Salvadorean restaurant across from Bethany Blues Lewes, Dona Maria’s features pupusas – warm corn tortillas stuffed with pretty much anything from cheese to beans, to beef and pork. Tamales and fried plantains also make appearances on the menu.

Fenwick has a number of shining stars, including Chef Yanni’s Yuzu Sushi. This young guy is battin’ a thousand with his rolls and his beautifully conceived entrees. This is the sister restaurant to his Nori Sushi Bar & Grill in OC’s Gold Coast Mall. One of the new kids on the Fenwick block is Jeff and Kim Hamer’s JR’s Seafood Shack in the strip where Just Hooked used to be. They made a total departure from their Fins concept by dishin’ up well-prepared Lowcountry fare. Don’t miss the redneck egg rolls, the Tybee-Style Deviled Eggs or the Bourbon Street Sliders!

A few blocks north is Jimmy’s Kitchen in Ocean Bay Plaza (no relation to Jimmy’s Grille). Every day in season, the lanky and talkative Jimmy pilots the flattop griddle like a 747 … until he runs out of stuff and locks the door. The Nor’Easter breakfast will fill you for several days. Rain or shine, there’s always a line.

If you blink, you’ll miss Pomodoro Pizzeria in downtown Bethany Beach. The moment I took my first bite, I was reminded of some of the best pizza I have ever eaten at Louie & Ernie's tiny storefront in the Bronx. Thanks to owners Rose and Brian, I no longer have to brave the Cross-Bronx Expressway to get my pizza fix. Around the corner, Bethany would not be complete without the tiny in stature but big in taste Surf’s Up on Garfield Parkway. Kristin and Billy Lewis’ cheesesteak and pizza fame has spread far and wide; there’s even a restaurant in Charleston, S.C., that pays homage to that little Bethany landmark!

Here comes that disclaimer again: I’m sure I left out somebody’s favorite place. But I only get to splatter so much ink onto this page, so venture out and discover your own hidden gems. Who knows what you might find? If it’s good, tell me about it.