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WINE

Bob Lindquist’s Qupé Chardonnay is one I enjoy

September 21, 2015

Once again, immediately following a thorough watering, after carefully pitch forking, spading, and then putting away all tools, it rained cats and dogs. I was so bummed out, I decided to try a few wines right away. The first was a lovely 92-point Spanish Cava named Naveran Rosado Brut Vintage 2013. I was torn about price points because while they are on the market at $162/case, or $15, in Elkton, there were none for sale in Delaware that I could find. I think the stores should be all over this. It is the first time in a while I’ve laid on 3 price points. The small, vibrant bead and lovely rose with a bit of orange color set up the palate perfectly. They are made of 60 percent Pinot Noir and 40 percent Parellada then left sur lie in the bottle for 15 months. The process served the wine well and gave it lovely background notes. Strawberry aromas, crisp acidity and a clean long, floral finish. A case for the upcoming holidays will help please your guests.

Next up Weingut St. Urbans-Hof Nik Weis Selection Urban Riesling QbA 2014. You may remember I wrote up the 2013 last year. The new release is easy to locate, priced under $11. Weis, who is a minimalist and provides us with a more “natural look,” does a great job with all his wine, but this entry-level 90-point wine is my choice for table Riesling. Opens to a floral nose with smoky notes. Dry with a hint of sugar, it is racy and shows the slate/stony finish I enjoy. There are other complex offerings from Urbans-Hof that better define the “terroir” but they are also more expensive. Newbies to Mosel can’t go wrong starting here.

OK Chardonnay pals, Qupé Bien Nacido Y Block Chardonnay from Santa Maria Valley in California was made by winemaker Bob Lindquist in the style I enjoy. Barrel fermented, it went through malolactic in the barrel. It was left on lees nine months in French oak, 25 percent new, before bottling. Pours light golden-colored showing the oak and a pleasing bouquet of citrus and ripe peach underscored with buttered toast nuance. On the palate pears, peaches and crisp apples vie for your attention. These are riding a full-balance palate that draws out to more buttered toast notes and a palate-cleansing finish. We served this with fresh, locally caught lobster. WOW! Please, folks, not too cold. Improper temperature kills the nose thereby making wine appear unbalanced. A great drill for novice winos is to pour a glass of cold wine, then sample it as it warms in the glass. For a lovely classically made wine such as Qupé Chardonnay start at 60 degrees. These folks also do a great job with Syrah, Marsanne, Viognier and Rousanne! The 2009 or 2010 Reserve Block 11 Chardonnay is really the way to go here. They are 92-point wines and the last I saw ran around $35. It is worth paying up in these cases. Qupé also produces half-bottles, by the way.

Let’s finish with an excellent Rocco Frassinella Le Sughere di Frassinello 2009 from Maremma in Tuscany, Italy. These run normally 89-90 points in most vintages going back to 2006 and are very food friendly. The 2009s were a cut above. Tanzer and Galloni both laid on 93 points. Blended of Sangiovese (50 percent), Merlot and Cab, the color is starting to relax, and the nose is cherry, spice with a tad of tobacco. A lovely concentrated soft palate added licorice and vanilla to more cherries. The full, long, opulent finish makes these great with grilled meat, some Eye-talian bread and tomato salad with XVOO, basil, red onion and salt. Hold the vinegar or other acid please. The 2009s are also wonderful stand-alone sipping wines. The most recent vintage can be found priced under $30 and are safe bets. If you cellar, buy a mixed vintage case and enjoy over the next few years. Best bet though is the 2011 priced under $20, findable under $17.

I hope you all noticed how brilliant the colors have become. The rain is a pain but it sure did brighten the flora and clean out the August muggys.

 

Email John McDonald at chjonmc@yahoo.com.

 

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