Try a cool glass of Viognier with a good cheese
I’m peering from my window, glass in hand, deciding whether I should shovel or finish the glass while waiting for global warming to kick in. Layers are key, my friends. Layers and a hot toddy or a cool glass of Viognier; I enjoy mine at 175 degrees or 60 degrees, respectively. Many claim that the best Viognier comes from the 375 acres in the Condrieu region of the Northern Rhone Valley in France. I decided to review one of those against Viogniers from Virginia, Cali and Oregon. Typically, Viognier is an aromatic, full-bodied white wine, usually with floral nose of acacia, orange blossom, honeysuckle and/or peaches or ripe apricots. Look for a rich, creamy mouthfeel with vanilla, tropical fruits and honey on the palate. It is the only varietal grape allowed to be grown in Condrieu. Those of you who heeded my call to buy Chateau Grillet 2012 back in late spring 2015, on release at $70, will be delighted to learn it is now selling for $263. If you have any 2007 or '08 drink them soon. Chateau Grillet was bought by billionaire Francois Pinault of the Artemis Group in 2011. They bought Araujo in Napa, which includes Eisele Vineyards, in 2013. Pinault also owns Chateau LaTour and Domaine d’ Eugenie in Vosne Romanee. Those who read People will know his son Francois-Henri married actress Salma Hayek. That last was my effort to bridge the cultural divide.
Tablas Creek in Paso Robles, owned by Robert Hass and Chateau Beaucastel, normally uses its Viognier in the Cotes de Tablas Blanc. When they have a great vintage, they produce a small amount as a varietal wine. 2013 was such a vintage. Galloni rated it 90 points. So, I sampled one. Pale golden-colored, it opens to a sweet floral nose with a vague hint of kiwi and licorice. On the palate, chalky minerality supports the floral nose and melon, sorrel (looks like spinach with vague lemony flavors from oxalic acid) and pineapple flavors. This finishes long and clean, and the chalk and sorrel repeat. I rate it 90 points priced under $30. Alban Cellars Central Coast Viognier 2012 is another noteworthy Cali Viognier, 93 points under $35. DuMol Viognier Lia Russian River Valley 2012 is 91 points under $45.
Bet you didn’t know “The Donald” owned a winery near Charlottesville, Va. Trump Winery with Albemarle Estate hotel is quite the spot for the horsey set to visit. It also produced a decent Viognier in 2013, and the 2014 won gold in San Francisco. I sampled the 2013 and it was 88 points at $24.
Pale golden with a pleasant floral bouquet, primarily honeysuckle. On the palate, peach and melon flavors with a round mouthfeel and a crisp, clean finish.
There are few food/wine symbioses better than Viognier and cheeses. The wine trade in the Willamette Valley of Oregon glommed onto that idea and has been producing some wonderful Viognier recently. The lovely cheese from the region has been produced commercially much longer. The main issue with Oregon Viognier has been the high alcohol content, perhaps 14.5-15 percent, and lack of availability. My recent experience tells me both issues are being resolved. Penner Ash and Christom, both are 2014, $30 and 90 points, would be my choices. Of the two, I think Christom is better. Pale golden with good legs, it opens to a complex bouquet of orange blossoms, acacia, peach, apricot, and anise aromas that resolve on the full, viscous palate much drier than one would expect from the mouthwatering full bouquet. The aromas, brisk acidity and alcohol are well balanced and support the fruit nicely.
WS gave Penner a 91-point accolade, but I did not find the profile they wrote of. My notes read: peach and white flowers with tropical notes. Creamy, honeydew melon, tart peach and spice on palate with acid-bright honeysuckle finish.
Finally, most Viognier are made to be consumed fairly early, let’s say two to seven years. This is driven by the need to preserve the lovely floral and fruit nose that is intrinsic to a well-balanced wine. Don’t look for oak in most cases.
Email John McDonald at chjonmc@yahoo.com.
