California Central Coast Cabs get no respect

It is ironic that so many entrepreneurs, employees and entertainers of every stripe heave a sigh of relief as their largest source of finance leaves town. Meanwhile the school year begins and the school folks and students mutter as they trade in leisure for the excitement, or drudgery, of the classroom, depending on their viewpoint.

So let’s start with a few value Italian sparklers. Bisol Crede Brut Superiore DOCG are made primarily of Glera (keep in mind the name changed from Prosecco in 2009, when Prosecco di Conegliano Valdobbiadene was awarded DOCG designation). Regulars with good memories may remember the initial column on Prosecci, which delved into the rating system. Long story short, DOCG designates the “best” of the region. Crede won silver at Concors Mondial in Brussels this year. It is very tough for Prosecci to get higher ratings because the Euro writers try to compare them to Champagne. Although these are made methode champenoise, the varietal grapes used are different. I’ve found, when judged blind with proper criteria, they generally fare better. When I announce they are buyable around $20 the general response is, “Where can I buy some?” Very pale straw with exuberant, tiny mousse opens to nose-tickling stone fruit aromas. On the creamy palate, dry with citrus and mineral flavors, finishes very cleanly. An elegant 90 McD. Keep in mind these will cellar and improve for a few years. Great for holidays or every day. Another Prosecco made by Bisol is Desiderio Jeio Prosecco Brut DOC under $15. They are also from Valdobbiadene. However, they are a bit more generic than the Crede, in that the juice can come from younger grapes or a wider area of the region. A nice little wine for the price. However, in the course of reading about Desiderio, I noticed they had a Cuvee Rosé, made using the Charmat process of PN (Pinot Nero in Italian, not Pinot Noir) and Merlot, which is an atypical blending, selling for less than $15. I bought one! Delicioso! I find Rosé sparklers more appealing. The color adds a festive air. Pale pink, with slight red cast and tiny bubbles, it opens to raspberry and roses. The palate is creamy with fresh acidity, strawberries, raspberries and some minerality on a clean finish. The finish was a bit short, but that was compensated by the berry flavors; 87 McD. An interesting side note, Jeio is S. Bisol’s nickname for his wife Desiderio.

Let’s go U.S. for a 2014 Viognier from the Central Coast region of Cali, made by Wild Horse Winery and Vineyards. I received a nice note from Chrissy Wittmann, their director of winemaking, extolling the virtues of the Viognier and the 2013 Cab. I love Viognier, and the 2014 was a treat. Wittmann wrote the growing season was hot and dry. It produced some very ripe grapes. The wine also spent five months “sur lie.” Barbara and I really enjoyed it with Szechwan-style,”Murican” wild gulf shrimp. Golden yellow-colored with pronounced floral nose enhanced by tropical fruit and wet stone notes. A compote of lychee, citrus and minerals on the palate led to an acid-crisp, long, dry finish. Buy them under $17 for 90 McD points.

The 2013 Wild Horse Cab should come in under $17. Blended of 85 percent Cab, 5 percent Syrah, 4 percent Petit Verdot and 3 percent each Merlot and Malbec from Monterey, Paso Robles and Santa Barbara counties, then 100 percent was aged 14 months in 25 percent new oak. Dark purple-colored, varietal nose with hints of currants, vanilla, cherry and pie spice. Took a bit of coaxing, as the wine needs some bottle time. They are just coming to stores here. The palate repeats currant and oak notes; add in some cola. Appropriate young-wine balance and firm tannins say, I will improve in your cellar. At these prices you should be a buyer. Central Coast Cabs, the Rodney Dangerfields of Cali Cab, won’t give you bragging rights at high-society wine gatherings but you can afford to buy a case to sample to learn about well-made wine. Those who wish to Scream with Eagles may go thirsty in bad times.

Email John McDonald at chjonmc@yahoo.com.