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Look at quality/price ratios for 2015 California wines

October 9, 2017

One of those anomalies for which I ask you folks to hold your fire is in the works. The Walter Hansel South Slope Pinot Noir 2012 has sold down because of RP writing that the 2013 North and South Slopes are truly huge winners. Having run from $22 to $53 (probably on my 93-point writeup, LOL), the 2012 is currently selling for $39. Considering my window, 2015-22, these are heartland. Don't get me wrong; the 2013 and ‘14 are also fine choices. As I wrote earlier, you are buying the vintner. Hansel is a star, especially when it comes to Russian River Valley, Sonoma and Burgundy varietal grapes. All the major writers love him. In average years, their effusive praise drives up the price. When stingy point awarder Stephen Tanzer lays on a 93, my taste buds perk right up. If your local wine shoppe pal doesn't have any of the 2012, the ‘13 is still available and just opening its window this fall. Your favorite store will take a bit of time and effort to round these up. You may make it easier by buying an entire case of four each 2012, ‘13 and ‘14. 

2015 was extremely hot and dry in California. Despite the lower yields, winemakers are impressed so far with their Pinot Noir and Chardonnay. Other reds like Cabernet Sauvignon, Merlot and Zinfandel are loaded with ripe flavors also. The vintage had very low yield but great concentration due to the drought and the heat wave, which caused the pick to arrive several weeks early. The 2015 top-of-line Sonoma wines will be expensive, driven by this series of events and the results. The release is happening now. Once the ‘15 is drooled over by writers, the cost on the case I'm recommending above will reach its nadir. Strike then for best results. Those who want an in-depth look at the 2017 wine industry outlook should read Rob McMillan's insightful report. Rob is EVP and founder of Silicon Valley Bank Wine Division. As you all know, SVB is one of the major financiers of the wine biz. Find his report here: www.svb.com/wine-report.

I sampled a Bodegas Delgado Zuleta Manzanilla Sanlucar de Barrameda with a plate of hard cheeses, some oysters and some Mexican spiced shrimp a few nights ago. This is a very lovely sherry for tapas, 90 points, and it will set you back less than $15, or $120/case. Great for holidays. Pale straw color, floral and yeasty aromas. On the palate, light and dry with a distinctive salty tang. Made from Palomino Fino sherry, Manzanilla is aged longer than Fino. By law they can only be produced in Sanlucar de Barrameda. The seaside climate of Sanlucar promotes yeast growth, known as flor, on the surface during aging. This longer aging under the flor causes Manzanilla to be light and very dry. Drink Manzanilla well chilled. These are aged 8 years in American oak. 

Ruggeri Argeo Prosecco Brut DOC is a good sparkler. Goes great with oysters. Pale, green-tinged, straw-colored with a pretty and persistent bead. Complex nose shows jasmine, apricot and lemon; on the crisp, dry palate look for pears, nectarine with a slight herbal undertone, 87 + 1 price point under $14.50. The other was from Tosti, which many of you may recognize as the producer of the ubiquitous Asti Spumante that graces all the outlet liquor stores over the holiday season. The Prosecco is an extra dry. Remember, gang, in sparklers, extra dry is sweeter than brut. The Prosecco is somewhere in between Asti Spumante and brut. It rates 85 points McD.

Closing with a lovely 100 percent Syrah, Ferraton Pere & Fils Crozes-Hermitage La Matiniere. The lovely ladies at Creative Palate introduced me to it and I'm glad they did. The Ferraton family produces the full range of Cotes du Rhone from red to rosé to white. In the past I've sampled the Crozes-Hermitage Le Grand Courtil, which I normally rate around 88-90 points under $40. The La Matiniere is comparable at $22. This 100 percent Syrah is fermented and aged in foudres for 14 months. Dark garnet with wide rim, lots of black cherry, currant, pie spice and black pepper, appropriate acidity and round tannins, finishes with typical olive notes. Great buy!

 

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