Veuve Clicquot may be dethroned as my go-to Champagne
What in the world is going on? The tragedy in Charleston, S.C., is unfathomable. Is this a hate crime or a deranged lunatic acting out? Focusing on those issues won’t resolve the racial animus some hold. None of these mass murderers acts in a vacuum. At what point will folks wake up and begin pointing out these disturbed people to the authorities before they act. Are we so PC that disturbed people who articulate racial hatred must act violently or murder before we take preventative measures? When will we start providing mental healthcare to the disturbed? Difficult questions that won’t be resolved by playing the race card. The Christian forgiveness exhibited by the family members and congregation of AME United is remarkable. Conflating this horror with the states’ rights issue of the Confederate battle flag or gun control, as many of the pols and babblers did on the Sunday talkers, underlines their brain-dead, obtuse approach to real issues. A more focused approach might help resolve the violence in our communities. Perhaps the new “pot” laws being passed will help calm us all down.
Pierre Morlet Grand Reserve Premier Brut, $49, may be replacing Veuve as my go-to Champagne. Pale golden, creamy mousse with biscuit and floral aromas. Rich, creamy, well-balanced champagne with green apple, raspberry, wild strawberry and citrus, with hints of violet and plenty of acidity. This is $5 or $6 more expensive, but the value is there, 91 plus 2 price points.
OK my little Chardonnay Droogies, I found ya a bahgin, Walter Hansel Estate Chardonnay 2012. Now I know you usually want to buy the Cuvee Alyce $40, cause RP said 95 points, but I’m here to tell ya the 2012 Hansell Estate Chardonnay RP 93, is by far the better wine, and it goes for $27. Malolactic fermentation followed by lees stirring provides honey, almonds, citrus, baked bread, pineapple, barrel spice, in fact everything you look for in a well-made chardonnay. These will cellar for at least six years. Buy a bottle.
When you love it, load up. One of the best recent Russian River Cali Chards priced under $35. At $25 or less, add 2 price points.
Wine and Food is Art not Science by Laura Maniec in Snooth is a worthwhile read. Go here: eat.snooth.com/articles/wine-and-food-is-art-not-science-6514.
Paul Hobbs has been on my screen since he followed Zelma Long at Mondavi then ran Opus 1 Project then to Simi, in the early ‘80s. He founded Paul Hobbs Winery in ’91. Regulars know I’m a huge fan of Mr. Hobbs. Barbara and I actually met him when he was fresh out of college and working at Mondavi. I think it was in ’80 or ’81. Barbara was pregnant with Marguerite so I had to sample twice as much wine, as I recall.
Fortunately I was provided samples of the recent release of five wines from Hobb’s CrossBarn label. I don’t have space this week. So let’s start with the 2014 Sonoma Coast Rosé of Pinot 2014.
Pale rose-quartz colored with tangerine and golden cherry aromas, opens to white peach and rose petals on the palate, finishes taut and dry with hints of salinity and citrus, $18. Nice European style Rosé made to complement food. The CrossBarn Sauvignon Blanc Sonoma County 2014 must be ordered from the winery and is well worth the effort. Pale straw colored, herbaceous nose on opening, I decanted it and found mown hay, white peach and grapefruit.
Notes called for quince but I did not detect any. On the palate green apple, lime pie, green tea are riding a citrus acid and chalky mineral frame, another nice food wine with a long, palate-cleansing finish. Please folks, if you have your local wine guy bring this in, don’t drink it too cold or too warm.
As with many whites, the fruit/acid balance breaks down when you do so. I think about 44-46 degrees F. or 6 degrees C. is a good temp. to start. The Rose of Pinot might like a bit closer to 48- 50 F. or 10 C. This isn’t carved into stone tablets, but I find this Intowine site very helpful on several levels: www.intowine.com/enjoy.html. I will review the other three CrossBarn wines next week.
Email John McDonald at chjonmc@yahoo.com.
