Making good wine is a little like brewing tea

As promised, this week's column will be about wine that fits Easter menus. The wines being reviewed are recent releases, with an addend of those that are more approachable and may be more easily found. As regulars are aware, most red wine will improve with aging. Although this is a bit broad-brush, the color/fruit/tannin balance will be a great indication of wine aging potential. All wine, even that from the darkest grapes, starts as a slightly cloudy, clear-colored liquid. This pale juice is reintroduced to the matte, which comprises the skins, seeds and stems retained after juice extraction (aka stompin' de grapes), primarily for the purpose of adding color and tannin to the wine. Think of the process as brewing tea. Generally, the longer the juice stews with the matte, the darker the color becomes, and the tannic bite is increased. This is true of both red and white wines. Winemaker's art and palate come into play at this point. The winemaker is drawing on experience to judge how the wine will resolve the fruit, acidity, alcohol, possible use and time in oak, and tannins into a finished product that is balanced and achieves the best outcome the terroir allowed.

During the past few years, I have been drawn to Concha y Toro Serie Riberas Gran Reserva collection of reds from various valleys in Chile. These are affordable, readily available and well made, coming in at 87-89 points in most recent vintages and findable at $15-$17/bottle or less. They are also available in six-paks and 12-bottle cases, usually at more favorable pricing. The 2015 Carmenere from Peumo, Cachapoal Valley, was quite lovely with lamb accompanied by a tart blackberry sauce.

The wine and fruit both came from Chile. 2015 is dark ruby colored with aromatic bouquet of blackberries, currants, mild pepper notes and barrel-driven cedar. The aromas are supported with nice balance, and the long, slightly tannic finish cleaned up the gamy and fatty aftertaste of the lamb. The 2015 gets 90 points, excellent QPR. Those who wish to go big can take a look at Concha's Carmin de Peumo Carmenere from the Rapel Valley. The 2012s run about $165. They have a hint of mint.

The Serie Riberas Gran Reserva Cabernet 2016 is another fine buy. Excellent balance is key. I was surprised to find a 90 percent Cab for about $16. Look for plums, blackberries and barrel spices that repeat on the palate with some cherry tones. Long, clean finish with the berry and spice notes continuing. This is a terrific value wine. Buy some under $17, add 2 price points for a McD 91. Upscale, go to Concha's Don Melchor, which I reviewed recently. 2010, '11 and '12 all rated 93 points, with the '10 and '11 getting a slight edge.

The 2010 is available; it came into its window in 2013. The '11 and '12 just arrived at window in 2016. Best of all, the 2011 is in Delaware under $100. Here's an anomaly: The 2015s rated 91 points are more expensive due to the slide in the $. Shop carefully, my friends.

As you know, I'm not much of a Malbecian. The RSVR Malbec 2013 was most appealing. Deep purple, pervasive aromas of blueberries, blackberries, and chocolate supported by sweet, smooth, subdued tannins and black fruit flavors. The palate was round and the finish was clean, $14, 90 McD. Going for a U.S. Malbec and a bit upscale, I found one lovely $42 Oregonian, Abacela East Hill Block Reserve 2014. Barbara and I visited the winery a few years back. I still remember the lovely grounds and the warm welcome we received there. On reading Paul Gregutt's review, I did the work and brought some in. Gregutt is the author of Washington Wines and Wineries: The Essential Guide and recognized as an expert on Pacific NW. His review was on the money. So, here it is: "sappy, sensational effort is bursting with an ultraripe flavor of crushed blueberry. Dusty tannins and a sprinkling of coffee grounds amplify the finish, with excellent texture and length, ending on a flourish of butterfat."

This rare profile has sort of changed my mind on Malbec, 92 McD at $42. Sometime, try lamb from Colorado or at least USA. Although I enjoy Australian and New Zealand lamb, and it is less expensive, good ol' USA lamb is definitely better. Treat yourselves.