French sparklers are up in price
First Italy and Spain, last week Cali and this week I will be looking at France for sparklers for the holidays. Before I do so, following is an article for my Indian friends (subcontinent not American for the PC crowd) and those who enjoy Indian food. Many regulars know I am an avid reader of Snooth.. They provide a wealth of info. This referral includes recipes and wine selections. One admonition! You must read the entire newspaper, ads and all, before proceeding to the site. Those who ignore this warning may have their software burned to a crisp by that agency located outside Baltimore that is watching everyone and whose name is not to be spoken or written by those who wish to prevent drone attacks on their homes. Go to eat.snooth.com/articles/5-wines-to-pair-with-indian-food-classics/#!slide=3.
I’m breaking my own rules here - please avoid these two - Barefoot Brut and Yellowtail Sparkling White. If you are in this market, your best bet may be Pink by Yellowglen, an Aussie wine priced under $10 with strawberry aromas and refreshing fruit flavors of sweet berry and lime. Not brut, more like dry.
Sparkler shoppers soon realize finding “cheap” French sparklers and champagnes is very difficult. Many think there is little available under $50 that is drinkable. Non, ce n’est pas vrai, mes amis! Here are several rated 90 points priced under $20. Lucien Albrecht Cremant D’Alsace Brut NV has tart, green apple, crisp with pleasing finish showing notes of honey and lemon. Their Rosé is lovely salmon color, dry, acid bright, refreshing strawberry throughout.
Albrecht has been producing wine since 1425, and Jean Albrecht is the 18th-generation leader. Pride of place and family is apparent in their entire panoply of wines. These are made for food. Try them with schwienebraten (roast pork) or bratwurst or Weinachtsgans (Christmas goose mit sauerkraut) and bratkartoffeln (home fries). You will be lovin’ life.
Then there’s JCB No. 21 Brut Cremant de Bourgogne NV made by Boisset Family Estates of juice from the Cote d’Or in Burgundy. Cote d’Or is home to the most famous French Burgundy. No. 21 is apples, lemons, crisp, very dry and finishes cleanly due to its high acidity. Must be served cold.
Langlois-Chateau Cremant de Loire Brut NV is another gem. Made “methode champenoise.” The brand is owned by Bollinger.
They follow the strict traditions observed in Champagne. Beautiful active tiny bead, very pale yellow color, showing a complex, tickly bouquet of grapefruit, peaches and quince. I enjoy this with smoked fish or oysters Rockefeller. Slightly up price at $26 but worth it.
Dollar doldrums the prior few years drove all big-name Champagne prices through the roof. I will be curious if the buck's rise will lower them. So this list is scant. Pol Roger (pronounce ro-jhay) Brut Reserve NV, best in price class at $35, pale ginger ale, flinty mineral nose with toast, lemon, ginger and spicy flavor and finish, 91 McD. Nicolas Feuillatte Brut NV was rated all over the lot, 85 points, Wine Connoisseur; 87, Tanzer; and 92 by WS. My notes: bright golden color, orange zest, apples, and mild yeast nose. At $43 I would look elsewhere and go up to $50. Their Rosé NV I rated 83 points and ignore at $43.
Bollinger Special Cuvee Brut NV is rated 90s priced around $55. RP gave it 91 but waxed eloquent, writing, “The NV Brut Special Cuvee is fabulous.” WS 93, WE 92, and Tanzer, IWC 91 points, wrote, “poached pear, Meyer lemon, chalky minerals and toasty lees. Fleshy pear and honey flavors show very good depth, picking up refreshing citrus pith and mineral nuances.” Several others agreed. WS writer was in zoomy land with his description, “poached apple, mille-feuille, black currant, kumquat and honey, showing hints of ground spice and smoky mineral.” I neither tasted nor smelled any of those, unless the mille-feuille is a reference to pastry smell. I define mille-feuille as the pastry used to construct a Napoleon or Apfel Strudel. The yeast-like nose I detected and the toast from resting “sur lies” are specific and have little to do with mille-feuille.
Ending on a brighter note, Happy Thanksgiving, the season for eating, not flipping, the bird.
