Lock up some Caymus Vineyards 40th anniversary Cab
This week brought three more wine tastings and a plethora of “good buys” for youse guys and gals. Can one write “gals” nowadays? Let’s start with a best buy white Burgundy, a rare find in this day and age. William Fevre Chablis Champ Royaux 2013 can be found around $20. Fevre, a very old-line producer, was bought by the Henriot Champagne house, and although it always enjoyed a good name, the involvement by Henriot has raised it into the environs of Dauvissat and Ravenau. WS gave Champ Royaux 2013 90 points, and others at least 88 points. Royaux is a huge step up from the generic Fevre Domaine Chablis, but fell far short of the Grand Cru bottlings of Les Clos, Bougros and Les Preuses. The latter three, however cost around $80, and I rate them mid-90s. As a tasting bonus, the shipper provided a Les Preuses Grand Cru 2004, which Jancis Robinson rated 18.5/20, with a window of 2011-22. She was right on the money, and once again it was proven to me that the best-made Chablis Grand Crus age extremely well. Guess what some research provided? A wine shoppe not far from here had some Les Preuses 2004 for sale priced at $75.50.
Matt Kettman, writing for WE a few years back, effusively praised Central Coast vintner Andrew Murray for his grasp on producing excellent Syrah; naming the Tous Les Jours 2011, “perhaps one of the best for the money.” Robert Parker wrote, "At a time when many California wines seem to be priced proportionally to their producers’ egos, Andrew Murray’s offerings are a breath of fresh air given their exceptionally high quality and realistic prices.” Readers take note. I just sampled the 2011 and the 2013, and was stunned that a Cali Syrah that cost less than $15 could rise to this level. 2011 Tous Les Jours Syrah opens to redolent aromas of dark fruit, violets, black pepper, mint and oak. On the palate, blackberry and plum are underlined with peppery spice, herbs and proper acidity. Long, dry finish shows more pepper and hints of earthiness; 93 McD priced under $25. The 2013 show aromas of cherry, blackberry, lavender and a white pepper with some floral notes. On the palate, cherry, licorice, violets and herbs. Again long, clean complex finish; 92 McD under $15.
I also had the chance to taste a Cote du Rhone Courbis Cornas Champelrose, 2010; rated 92 McD points when bought under $50. Cornas (Celtic for burnt earth) derives from a very small (270 acres) parcel in one of the most inhospitable regions of the Rhone.
The vines seem to sprout from pure granite outcroppings that face extremely hot, sunny exposures. As a result, the wine varies greatly from vintage to vintage. In a very good year like 2010, it is worth bringing some in to lie down. Unlike other Cotes du Rhone, all Cornas must be made of 100 percent syrah by law.
Tanzer gave the 2010 91 points. I think they are ready to drink now, but will easily age another 20 years. They are inky dark with violets and some pine aromas. Juicy ripe fruit runs through the palate to the finish; plenty of tannin and oak for aging. Finishes long with oak and tar notes.
I would like to recommend those who speculate or just love great Napa Cab buy some of the Caymus Vineyards 40th Anniversary Cabernet Sauvignon Napa Valley 2012, and lock it up. First, because it is a wonderful 94-point wine (RP 96). Second, in every past vintage where Caymus Special Select was rated better than 92 points, the wine is gathering north of $200 at auction. 2004 started at $71 and 2007 at $66.
Because it is 40th anniversary, there will probably be a premium on the 2012. Recently, the 40th were on sale under $60. Nearly black purple, the bouquet is cassis, mocha, cedar and licorice.
On the palate, blackberry, vanilla, oak, more licorice, smooth tannins with balanced fruit/acid frame, full body and a long, textured finish. Will cellar 20 years, but is approachable now. Happy Sinko de Mayo.(I couldn’t resist.)
