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Oregon becoming a leader for serious Pinot Noirs

September 25, 2017

This week kicks off with a truly wonderful bargain. No. 46 on WS top 100 in 2016, the 2014 Dao Sul Quinta de Cabriz Colheita Seleccionada Dao Red can be found under $8. This wine employs the traditional Southern Portugal red blend of 40 percent Alfrocheiro, 40 percent Tinta Roriz (Tempranillo, often also called Aragonez in Portugal) and 20 percent Touriga Nacional. Try something different. It's dark ruby-red with a substantial fruit nose of raspberries, currants and barrel-driven spices. The fruit and spice persist on the palate with hints of white pepper riding a mineral, crisp frame into a juicy finish that shows just the right of amount of tannin. Very approachable but will cellar 3-4 years. I did not find the cocoa or the vegetal hints that were apparent in the 2013. Avoid the '13 and '15. They are decent but you will be happier with 2011, '14 and '16. These are worth the search.

Big doings in the vineyards. The Duncan family, owners of Silver Oak, bought Ovid in Napa a few months ago. They just made a very strong move into Oregon, buying the 40-acre Prince Hill location in Dundee Hills from Dick Erath. This is the heart of Oregon's finest Pinot Noir growing region. Erath planted in the early '80s and has been producing some very highly rated wine from the plot over the past few years. Erath, now 82, sold most of his properties to Chateau Ste. Michelle in 2006 but held on to Prince Hill because his home is located there. Erath will continue to reside there or in Wilcox, Ariz., where he is a partner in a new winery. This comment from Duncan was pithy, "As a serious-minded Pinot Noir producer, Oregon is the frontier right now."

This foray into Oregon was likely driven by the 2014 hiring of Erin Miller as winemaker at Twomey Cellars, the Duncans' other venture. Miller is a fascinating woman with an interesting background. She has a math and Russian degree from Lewis & Clark in Oregon. While waiting to leave for a 2-year stint with the Peace Corps in Niger, she did the fall harvest in Napa. Can you say hooked? On returning, Miller won an MS from UC Davis. She then bounced around to some tony names in France and after returning to good ol' USA landed at Kendall-Jackson Bordeaux experiment at Winwood, a brief stint at Hartford Family Winery, then back home to Oregon for several years managing four boutique wineries. She is an accomplished wino, and I'm guessing she will continue to send us more delicious wine from Prince Hill.

Longtimers may recall a review on Tenuto San Guido Sassicaia 2011 and '10. Maybe not. A recent article on the 2013, of which some are writing "96-100 points," caused me to check back on the "wine ready to drink" notes. Good news for big-buck boys. A run of mid-90s ratings from 2006-14 has finally brought prices down for careful shoppers. These are still pricey but the time value of money, and long-running successful vintages will allow aficionados to buy wine ready to drink at relatively good value. An example is the 2011, which came on at $179, was extremely well written by most of the likely suspects and spiked to $220. It is just about ready and can be found by diligent wine shop pals for $179 again. The 2010 also came on at $179 and so far, no look back from $212. Although the 2011 just entered its window, I took a chance on a bottle I found for $165. Apparently, the inventory guy was napping. It was excellent. Still a dark ruby color with smooth tannic backbone, should keep at least 10 more years. Lovely fruit and classic balsamic aromas with a bit of oak spice. Great structure, mid-palate weight and fruit that runs through a very long finish. If you are a fan, this may be the best of a long, great skein. Avoid the 2014. It is 91 points, still a fine wine, but is selling in the same range as better vintages.

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