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Read wine reviews carefully for best results

November 13, 2017

Like Fredo in The Godfather, it broke my heart to pull cork on a 2014 Don Melchor. One downside to reviewing is that I often drink wine before its time. Sadly, this confuses many who employ critics to help them select wine. Some readers fail to read thoroughly, or they miss the drinkable window. Occasionally, writers fail to include them. These lapses have at least two negative effects. Novice consumers/readers wonder what in heck is wrong with the experts' taste buds. Or worse, they decide their own palate is flawed. You may remember Grandpa slipping one of the "utes" some of his homemade vino. Witnesses will likely remember the scrunched look of disgust that transfigured that beautiful face.

Reminds me of watching the MD 20 or Blue Nunners of my formative years sampling a bottle of yesterday's vintage Chateau Mouton or too-cold new Montrachet and wondering, what's the fuss? Or better, the halcyon days of Lucy and her diamonds, when the glitter boys and gals were swilling down Dom and Cristal at several hundred a bottle, and doing the Steve Martin bit. "What's with all the old white wine? Give me some of the new stuff!" FYI, the 1990 Cristal drinking window was 2006-20. Here's RP on sampling from a magnum tasted in 2008: "Louis Roederer 1990 Cristal is still a youngster. Gorgeous brioche, orange rind, and citrus, in a full-bodied, unbelievably pure style that could have been 5-6 years old, rather than 18."

Wow, got off on a bit of a tangent there. Sorry! The Don Melchor 2014 was lovely. Very approachable now through 2028, at least. Several rated this low 90s. I think they are eating too much asparagus. 2014 is young but stunning and will become a star, McD 97. One of my gurus, Jancis Robinson, awarded 18.5/20, which compares to the pope confirming you. Recommended retail $125 but I have seen it being sold for $540/6-pak. Don't buy for price appreciation, but enjoyable drinking. Better than the highly touted 2010. Very dark Tyrian or heliotrope color, with chewy tannins due to 9 percent Cab Franc. This is full-bodied with plenty of Cab Sauv tones. Look for cherries, currants and plums, excellent balance and a long cocoa/black fruit, nuanced finish.

Thanks to my pals at Creative Palate, I also sampled three 2015 Carmeneres from Concha. First, Marques de Casa Concha Rapel Valley, 87 points under $20. Blackberry and fresh herb, medium body, appropriate tannin, herbal finish. Casillero del Diablo Carmenere is a fine entry-level example, 90 points under $10, 1 price point.

These won gold medal in class at several events. Look for red currant, chocolate nose with soft tannins. The Gran Reserva Serie Riberas was the best QPR around $17, 89 points + 2 price points. Crimson purple color with blackberry, plum plus vague smoke aromas. More plum, a touch of dark chocolate, medium body, tannin and acidity on the palate, and a clean finish. Drink now but will hold a few years. Wonderful daily table wine!

Charles Krug Peter Mondavi Family Napa Valley Merlot 2013 gets 89 McD points. It's an 86 percent Merlot, 10 percent Cabernet Sauvignon, 3 percent Malbec, 1 percent Cabernet Franc blend. In Cali, when wine is 75 percent one varietal, it may so designate. Look for berries, vanilla and pie spice (17 mos. on oak) aromas. Medium tannin, with some cherry and chocolate on the palate and a long finish which shows some coffee and chocolate. A bit of alcoholic heat at 14.9 percent, but who's complaining?

Finally, B.R. Cohn makes nice olive oil, and the 2015 Petricka Vineyard Merlot ain't bad either. Usually I deplore the single-vineyard labeling as a price play. Cohn n'est pas. Fortunately, I was sampled, so I say 92 McD around $36. It's 100 percent Merlot, 20 months on oak, dark ruby; the nose is mostly dark fruit, black cherry and boysenberry with anise, cocoa, mint and oaken spice hints. The palate follows the nose - soft, well balanced with fine tannins, and a lovely, long, 14.5 percent alcohol finish.

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