White Rhone wine: hidden gems at bargain prices

I found it difficult to focus on writing this week's column with the tragedy in the Gulf all over the news. Please pause and use this week's allotment for wine to support a valuable charity instead. Don't just send to one of the big-namers, though. Go to Charity Navigator or Charity Watch to find a true charity rather than one whose CEO is paid huge money.

Following are some 90-point selections that are favorably priced. Seven Deadly Zins at $13 opens with pepper, licorice, cloves that evolve to brambly blackberries and cherries on the palate. Long, clean finish reveals oak-driven vanilla, cocoa, and mild tannins. Mionetto Prosecco Brut, a golden apple-flavored sparkler, is as good as it gets under $12. Very dry, it makes an excellent Bellini cocktail, and the peaches are perfect in the local stores. Z. Alexander Brown Uncaged Cab 2014 is around priced under $15. Music folks know Zac Brown, and this collaboration is as successful as his music.

Well-balanced, opens to a spicy, fruit nose. On the palate, dark fruit and dark chocolate are supported by fine tannins and sufficient acidity. Harmonious and a lot of cab at this price. I rated it 88 but added 2 price points.

How about a good, inexpensive Chardonnay? Meiomi Chardonnay 2014 doesn't have the prestige of a county or region or vineyard name. It is a blend of juice from Monterey, which provides a ripe stone fruit core. Sonoma juice adds green apple notes and minerality, and juice from Santa Barbara enhances sweet spices and tropical fruit nuance.

The normal suspects were less than generous with this mutt, sending in 86-87 ratings. I say they peeked at the price, learned of its dubious parentage and allowed that to influence their ratings. I think it is a solid 90 regardless of its pedigree. A value buy priced under $14. If you get really lucky, you may find some 2013 hanging around on the shelf. This was the best recent vintage. Although these are winemaker-blended wines and generally consistent, sometimes the juice of a specific vintage is extra special.

Few readers enquire concerning White Rhone wine. The good news is this general lack of interest allows remarkable wine to come in at delightfully reasonable prices. For instance, 94-point Clos Saint-Jean Chateauneuf-du-Pape Blanc 2015 can be had under $40. Careful searchers can find 2012 Delas Hermitage Marquise de la Tourette Blanc under $75. So, here's the rest of the story (RIP Paul Harvey). RP loves these guys. He constantly rates them in the 96 or better range. Like clockwork, the price spikes and falls back. Jancis Robinson gave the 2012 a 17.5 rating. She is a bit stingy, but I'm OK with that. One issue I've not discussed is that RP has a huge voice. His ratings have a disproportionate effect on the "aggregate critics score," a common number placed on wine store shelves. The 2014 is a good example of this effect. Anyhow here's my read on the 2012. A complex, redolent nose with acacia, vanilla, nectarines, and orange and lemon notes.

On the concentrated, textured palate, these are buttery, juicy and fresh. The wine is 100 percent Marsanne. Folks, Rhone whites love the cellar. Although the 2012s are approachable now, another five or six years in the cellar will improve them.