Pinot Blanc wines have come into their own

Although I was scooped on Mike Z in last week’s paper, I wish to extend a hearty congratulation to him. Winning recognition in WS for your wine list is a very difficult task. It takes time, knowledge and diligence to fulfill their exacting criteria. Currently there are only 3,592 such establishments worldwide. Delaware has five with the addition of Lupo. Believe it or not, Rehoboth Beach has two, the other being Eden. When I owned Garden Gourmet, I had the able assistance of Tim Wood to help the restaurant win our initial Award of Excellence and later upgrading to “Best of.” Notwithstanding Tim’s hard work and constant attention, it was very difficult to maintain that status. Congrats, Mike, keep up the good work. SoDel also deserves a tip of the toque for supporting Mike’s effort and the prescience to hire a talented “wino” to direct their endeavor. 

I just sampled a Francois Baur Riesling Alsace Grand Cru Brand 2009. It was scrumptious. Some research showed it was easily findable. Baur is noted for only producing these when they are at their best; 2013, ‘09, ‘06 and ‘05 are best recent vintages.

These are dry, nicely balanced Rieslings. Apple, white peach, grapefruit flavors with a slight salt nuance are firmly supported with bright acidity. Long, clean finish shows slatey minerality. Good thru at least 2023. These are especially good with tuna, sword and mahi; 91McD under $25. The 2013 will be available shortly and will keep through 2027 at least. Those who can afford a case will be richly rewarded after 2018. Another lovely $25 wine ($22.50 ea/case) with a tongue twister name is Reichsgraf Von Kesselstatt Piesporter Goldtropfchen Riesling Spatlese 2012. When Kim Marcus laid on a 95-point critique, it came in at $41. Since then, the price has declined to under $29/case price. Beautiful fruit nose with complex bouquet of apple, dried apricot, pear and spice. On the palate vibrant minerality, with apricot and citrus flavors which continue through a long, pleasing finish. These will easily cellar past 2040. 

Pinot Blanc has long been the realm of Alto Adige and of course Alsace. Recently Oregon, Michigan and the Okanagan in British Columbia are coming into their own. Regional wine sales data tell me that many of yuse guys and gals are not up to speed on these lovely wines. Or maybe you sampled a few when the New World producers were struggling with the varietal and sending out “oily whites.” Those days are behind us. I think you will find the following very enjoyable with our local fare on these long, hot, summer days and eves.

Almost forgot Central Valley in Cali, where I look for J. Wilkes, Kynsi, Alapay and Donati. Best of all, the following listed are findable under $16.

In Oregon, look for Winter’s Hill Dundee Hills. Pinot Blanc isn’t an aromatic grape. On the palate, white peach, crab apples, chalky earth and sweet dried floral notes.

Bright fine mineral base with lively acidity helping to lend this energy in the mouth. Finishes dusty with lemon curd, lime zest, baked apple and herbs; 93 McD points and a lot of wine at twice its price. Eyrie Vineyards Pinot Blanc is rated 91 McD due to $18 price tag but drinks nicely.

The Pinot Gris is better and a better buy. Another good name for Oregon PB is St. Innocent Freedom Hill. In the Okanagan look for Inniskillin, Lake Breeze or Sandhill. My favorite here was Sandhill. Clear with slight yellow tint, opens to pineapple, melon, yellow apple and floral nuance. On the palate, melon, pink grapefruit, apple and tropical fruit. Finishes cleanly with citrus apple and spice notes. Do not over chill! Serve at 12-14 degrees C. (13 C. = 55.48 F). Drink with smoked salmon, spicy pork, Swiss, Gouda or roast chicken. Winemaker used oak and lees stirring to great effect here.

McD 92 under $20. Alan Eaker and Shawn Walters are the ice wine guys in Northern Michigan. They live on the edge. Can you imagine picking grapes there? How about at 15 degrees F? Some of these may be difficult to find, but I heartily recommend asking your by now well-established wine store pal to bring in the Sandhill and the Baur.